The Two Baynard’s Castles: A Tantalising Glimpse At London’s Past

If you love history and outdoor adventures and are looking for a place to escape London’s urban chaos, Loughton Camp is an excellent choice for a weekend family trip. Multiple bus routes can take you there from various spots in London, and the walk up the hill is worth it. But why Loughton Camp? We will tease you with two names – Julius Caesar and Boudica. If you want to know more, read on!

Loughton Camp: Location and Topology

Loughton Camp is situated within the ancient woodland of Epping Forest in Essex, just to the northeast of London. This part of the forest is characterised by a striking mixture of tall, old trees and dense undergrowth, offering an almost mystical atmosphere to the visitor. The hill fort is perched on a high plateau, roughly 90 metres above sea level, giving it a commanding view of the surrounding landscape. This elevation, one of the highest points in the forest, makes it an ideal natural fortification.

The camp is relatively large, encompassing approximately 4 hectares (about 10 acres), and is ringed by a series of shallow banks and ditches that would have been much deeper and steeper in its prime. These defences form an oval shape, with the interior likely having been used for settlement, livestock, and storage. Walking along the site today, one can still discern these earthworks despite the natural erosion and overgrowth that have softened their edges over the centuries. The proximity of Loughton Brook, a small stream, would have provided an essential water source for the inhabitants.

Earliest History – The Trinovantes’ Settlement

Loughton Camp dates back to around 500 BC, during the late Bronze Age or early Iron Age. Archaeological finds, including pottery shards and iron tools, suggest that it was inhabited by the Trinovantes, one of the most powerful tribes in southeastern Britain at the time. The Trinovantes controlled much of modern-day Essex and parts of Suffolk and were known for their metalworking, farming, and trade skills.

The exact purpose of Loughton Camp remains a topic of debate among historians and archaeologists. Given the size of the fort and its robust earthwork defences, it is likely that it served as a communal living area for several hundred people. The site would have been a centre for the surrounding agricultural community, providing a secure place to retreat in times of conflict. Given its proximity to the navigable River Lea and its strategic position overlooking key routes through the forest, it may also have functioned as a trading hub.

Unlike some other hill forts of the period, which show signs of continuous occupation, Loughton Camp has been intermittently used. This could suggest that it was primarily a seasonal or emergency site, only inhabited when the local population felt threatened by rival tribes or external invaders.

A Natural Stronghold – The Strategic Position

The placement of Loughton Camp atop one of the highest points in Epping Forest was no accident. From its vantage point, the camp would have provided an exceptional lookout over the surrounding countryside, making it an ideal location for surveillance and defence. The forest itself would have acted as a natural barrier, making it difficult for large forces to navigate quickly, which added to the site’s defensibility.

In Iron Age Britain, hill forts were often built in such commanding locations for military reasons and as a symbol of tribal power. Loughton Camp’s elevated position would have allowed its inhabitants to monitor movement along ancient trackways that passed through the forest and the nearby valleys. Any approaching danger would be spotted well in advance, giving the residents time to prepare or retreat if necessary.

The earthwork fortifications would have further strengthened this natural defensive position. The steep slopes surrounding the camp would have made it difficult for attackers to storm the site, while the banks and ditches would have slowed down any assault. Loughton Camp was undoubtedly a formidable stronghold in its day, with its back protected by the dense forest and its front offering a clear view of any advancing enemy.

The Controversy – Caesar’s Third Camp or Boudica’s Last Stand?

Loughton Camp’s history is not without controversy. One theory, proposed by enthusiast historian Roger Nolan, suggests that Loughton Camp might have played a role in Julius Caesar’s second invasion of Britain in 54 BC. According to Nolan, Loughton Camp could have been Caesar’s third camp, used during his campaign as he pushed inland from the Kent coast. The idea is intriguing, though it remains speculative due to the lack of direct archaeological evidence linking the site to Roman occupation.

Caesar’s invasion, which was largely aimed at securing tribute from the British tribes and preventing them from aiding his Gallic enemies, involved several skirmishes and temporary camps as his forces marched through the southeast. The theory posits that Loughton Camp’s strategic location and proximity to the River Lea could have made it a suitable site for a temporary Roman encampment during the campaign. Yet, this remains a fascinating but unproven suggestion without concrete artefacts like Roman pottery, coins, or weapons.

Local legends also link the campsite to Boudica’s war against the Romans in 60-61 AD. The rebellion, led by the warrior queen of the Iceni tribe, was a major uprising against Roman rule. Boudica’s forces attacked Roman settlements across eastern England, including Londinium (modern-day London), before being defeated by Roman legions. With its advantageous position, some believe that Loughton Camp could have been used as a campsite or rallying point for Boudica’s forces as they moved through the region.

Again, this theory is pure speculation. No archaeological finds from the Roman period have been uncovered at the site, and Boudica’s movements during the rebellion are still largely unknown. While it’s tempting to imagine Loughton Camp playing a role in these dramatic events, these ideas remain unconvincing for now.

Loughton Camp Today – A Quiet Remnant of the Past

Today, Loughton Camp is a peaceful, often overlooked part of Epping Forest, far removed from its past’s potential conflict and intrigue. Visitors can walk among the ancient earthworks, marvelling at how nature has slowly reclaimed this once-defended position. The site is a popular spot for walkers and history enthusiasts, offering a glimpse into the region’s ancient past while providing a quiet retreat from the modern world.

Epping Forest is a place of great natural beauty, home to diverse flora and fauna. The surrounding woodland remains much as it would have appeared to the ancient inhabitants of Loughton Camp, with towering oaks and hornbeams providing a canopy that has stood for centuries.

Though much about the site remains a mystery, Loughton Camp’s history as an Iron Age hill fort is undeniable. Whether it played a role in Caesar’s invasion or Boudica’s rebellion may never be known for certain. Still, its position and construction speak of a place valued for its natural strength and strategic significance.

In visiting Loughton Camp, one steps back into a world where the hills and forests were picturesque landscapes and vital fortifications, where ancient tribes stood in the shadow of the encroaching Roman Empire. The mysteries of Loughton Camp continue to inspire curiosity and wonder, a reminder that even the quietest corners of our history have stories to tell.

If you happen to stroll along Fleet Street, you will surely notice St Bride’s Church’s famous wedding cake spire, designed by England’s most notable architect, Sir Christopher Wren. However, few know you can visit one of the most fascinating and blood-chilling archaeological sites under the church. Featuring a fragment of a Roman paved street, the foundations of Saxon and mediaeval Christian temples, and a haunting charnel house, it is a must-visit for those tempted by London’s millennial history.

From its ancient roots as a possible site of 6th-century worship to its repeated destruction and rebirth, St Bride’s is a microcosm of London’s turbulent life. And it is what lies beneath its foundations that reveals the layers of its fascinating, and at times eerie, past.

The Early History of St Bride’s Church

St Bride’s Church may be best known for its striking spire, but its origins stretch back far beyond Sir Christopher Wren’s baroque creation. Archaeological evidence suggests that a place of worship existed on this site as early as the 6th century AD, when London, or Londinium, was a relatively quiet town in post-Roman Britain, a mere shadow of its former urban glory.

It is believed that the earliest church here may have been a simple wooden structure built by early Saxon Christians. Fleet Street was part of an ancient Roman road that connected the heart of Londinium with the surrounding areas, making it a vital location for commerce, communication, and religious life.

Over time, the early wooden church would have been replaced by more substantial structures as the city grew and developed. By the medieval period, St Bride’s had become a prominent place of worship for the growing population of Londoners. Its name is thought to derive from St Brigid, a patron saint of Ireland, and the church would have served as a spiritual anchor for the inhabitants of Fleet Street and beyond.

The Great Fire of London and Christopher Wren’s Masterpiece

The Great Fire of London in 1666 consumed much of the city, and St Bride’s was not spared. The wooden structure that had stood for centuries was reduced to ashes, along with 87 other churches. But from this catastrophe emerged one of the greatest architectural minds of the time, Sir Christopher Wren.

Wren, tasked with rebuilding many of the city’s churches, approached the reconstruction of St Bride’s with the same ingenuity and grandeur that marked his work on St Paul’s Cathedral and other masterpieces. The church’s most famous feature, the spire, was designed as a symbol of hope and resilience. With its layered design resembling a wedding cake, it became a lasting icon of the city.

Like many of Wren’s works, St Bride’s reflected the blend of elegance and practicality that defined his architectural style. While St Paul’s Cathedral may have been his crowning achievement, St Bride’s spire is one of his most creative expressions. The church was designed to be more than just a place of worship—it was a statement of London’s capacity for renewal.

The Cholera Outbreak of 1854 and Sealing of the Tombs

St Bride’s continued to serve as a hub for its parishioners well into the 19th century, but another disaster would soon touch it. In 1854, an outbreak of cholera swept through London, causing widespread panic and devastation. This particular outbreak became infamous for its connection to the contaminated water supply around Broad Street, but it also affected those buried beneath St Bride’s.

The cholera epidemic forced authorities to reassess the practice of burying people in church crypts and graveyards, particularly in urban areas like Fleet Street. It was feared that decaying bodies in the church’s tombs could be spreading disease through the air and water. As a result, many of the tombs at St Bride’s were sealed to prevent further contamination.

These tombs, once the final resting places for some of London’s notable citizens, remained untouched for nearly a century. It wasn’t until much later, during the reconstruction after World War II, that they were reopened, revealing chilling secrets of the church’s past.

The Blitz and the Excavations That Followed

As Londoners endured the harrowing days of the Blitz during World War II, St Bride’s found itself again in the line of fire. In December 1940, a bomb hit the church, reducing it to ruins for the second time in its history. Though the spire survived, the interior was obliterated, leaving only a skeleton of Wren’s vision.

Before the church could be rebuilt, archaeologists were granted permission to conduct excavations beneath the ruins. What they uncovered shocked many and offered a rare glimpse into the ancient history of London.

The excavation of St Bride’s unearthed layers of history buried beneath its foundations. Beneath the rubble of Wren’s baroque masterpiece, archaeologists found traces of Roman Londinium, Saxon artefacts, and medieval foundations, each representing different periods of the city’s evolution.

The Roman Ditch and Pavement

One of the most remarkable discoveries during the excavation was the remains of a Roman ditch and pavement. The Roman presence in the area dates back to the 1st century AD when Londinium was an important Roman settlement. The excavation revealed the remnants of a Roman road and a drainage ditch that would have helped channel water from the higher ground towards the River Fleet.

The discovery of the Roman pavement was particularly significant, as it provided a tangible link to the city’s ancient past. This well-preserved section of Roman engineering underscored Fleet Street’s long-standing importance as a major thoroughfare, long before it became synonymous with London’s printing trade.

Saxon and Mediaeval Foundations

As archaeologists dug deeper, they uncovered foundations from the Saxon and Mediaeval periods, each offering insights into the church’s evolving architecture. The earliest were believed to be from the 6th or 7th century when the first Christian structure was built on the site.

Later, mediaeval foundations showed how the church expanded and rebuilt over the centuries. These remnants of previous iterations of St Bride’s reminded us of the constant flux of history—the church, like the city it served, had been built, destroyed, and rebuilt countless times.

The Iron Coffin of Mrs Campbell

Among the many tombs discovered beneath St Bride’s, one stood out as particularly curious: the iron coffin of Mrs Campbell. Unlike the more traditional lead or wooden coffins, Mrs Campbell had been interred in a large iron sarcophagus, likely as a precaution against grave robbers.

The coffin, while fascinating from an archaeological perspective, also raised questions about Mrs Campbell’s life and death. Iron coffins were rare and expensive, typically reserved for those who could afford such elaborate burials. The decision to place her in such a coffin suggests a concern about the sanctity of her final resting place, possibly due to the fear of body-snatching, a practice not uncommon in 18th—and 19th-century London.

The Blood-Chilling Charnel House

Perhaps the most macabre discovery beneath St Bride’s was the charnel house, a place where bones of the dead were stored after their bodies had decayed. This grim chamber was filled with human remains, carefully stacked in a manner that reflected both the practicalities of space and the reverence for the dead.

The charnel house was a reminder of the church’s medieval past when burial space in London was at a premium. Instead of leaving decaying bodies in overcrowded churchyards, remains would be exhumed and placed in charnel houses to make room for new burials. While the practice may seem unsettling today, it was a common solution to the problem of limited burial space in urban areas.

The discovery of the charnel house beneath St Bride’s brought to light the sobering reality of life, death, and burial practices in medieval London. It was a testament to the church’s long history as a place of worship but also of burial and remembrance.

A Church with a Thousand Lives

With its elegant spire towering over Fleet Street, St Bride’s Church is more than just a symbol of architectural beauty. It is a history repository containing the stories of centuries beneath its foundations. St Bride’s is a microcosm of the city’s life story from its Roman origins to its Saxon beginnings, its medieval transformations, and its role as a final resting place for London’s dead.

The hidden secrets beneath St Bride’s remind us that London’s history is written in the buildings we see above ground and the layers beneath.

London’s skyline might look like the cover of a sci-fi novel, but it will not take you long to find the traces of its two-millennia-long urban history. The bustling capital of Roman Britannia lost much of its lustre in the Dark Ages, but it still attracted the attention of the Vikings and the Normans after them. You can still find them all on the city streets – Romans, Saxons, Vikings and the English of the early Plantagenet era. You just have to know where to look.

1. The Roman Amphitheatre: Echoes of Gladiators

Buried beneath the bustling Guildhall in the heart of the City of London lies the Roman Amphitheatre, a site that has been forgotten for centuries. Discovered only in 1988 during redevelopment work, this ancient arena once held up to 7,000 spectators who gathered to watch gladiators fight for glory.

The remains of the amphitheatre’s stone walls and timber seating outline what was once the stage for bloody contests and Roman sports. As you wander through the exposed foundations, you can almost hear the roars of the crowd and feel the tension in the air as gladiators prepared for battle. Today, the amphitheatre has been cleverly incorporated into the Guildhall Art Gallery, allowing visitors to experience this hidden slice of Roman Britain while admiring fine art.

2. The Wall of Londinium: Roman Fortifications

The Wall of Londinium is one of the city’s most enduring remnants of its Roman past. Erected around 200 AD, the wall stretched for over three miles, encircling the Roman town of Londinium and offering protection from Saxon raiders. Much of it has since crumbled or been built over, but fragments can still be seen in several locations around the city.

One of the best-preserved sections can be found near Tower Hill, where you’ll spot the imposing stonework peeking through the modern cityscape. Walking along the ruins gives you a sense of the fortifications’ original grandeur, and it’s easy to imagine Roman soldiers pacing along its length, standing guard over a bustling Londinium.

3. Billingsgate Roman House & Baths: Life in Ancient London

Tucked away beneath the bustling streets of modern-day London lies the Billingsgate Roman House & Baths. This archaeological treasure offers a fascinating glimpse into domestic life in Roman Britain. Discovered in the 19th century during building work, this well-preserved site includes the foundations of a Roman house and its accompanying bathhouse.

The bathhouse was a central part of Roman social life, and the Billingsgate site provides a detailed look at how Roman Londoners enjoyed their leisure time. Visitors can walk around the remnants of heated floors, plunge pools, and steam rooms, all beautifully preserved. While relatively small, the site offers a window into the everyday luxuries enjoyed by wealthy Romans nearly two thousand years ago.

4. Spitalfields Charnel House: A Forgotten Burial Ground

Located in the heart of the East End, Spitalfields Charnel House is one of London’s more eerie ruins. This 14th-century burial vault was part of the mediaeval priory of St Mary Spital and served as a resting place for hundreds of human remains. In case you’re wondering, a charnel house was used to store bones when a cemetery became overcrowded.

Long forgotten, the Spitalfields Charnel House was rediscovered in the late 1990s during a development project. Today, visitors can explore this haunting site, where the stone walls still exude a faint chill. Though its origins were purely practical, it’s hard not to feel the weight of history when standing among the remains of London’s mediaeval past.

5. The London Mithraeum: A Secret Roman Temple

Deep beneath the towering skyscrapers of the City of London lies the London Mithraeum, a hidden gem that once served as a temple to the god Mithras. Originally built in the 3rd century AD, this subterranean temple was used for secret rituals by followers of the Mithraic cult, a mysterious religion popular among Roman soldiers.

The Mithraeum was discovered in 1954 during excavation work and has since been meticulously reconstructed. Visitors can now descend into the depths of the Bloomberg building to experience a hauntingly atmospheric recreation of the ancient temple, complete with projections and soundscapes that bring the rituals of the past to life. It’s a fascinating reminder of the strange and diverse religious practices that once flourished in Roman London.

6. WELL Tower: London’s Hidden Norman Fortress

Tucked away in an unassuming corner of central London stands the WELL Tower, a hidden fragment of Norman architecture that’s easy to overlook but impossible to forget once you’ve spotted it. Built shortly after the Norman Conquest in the late 11th century, the WELL Tower is all that remains of a much larger complex that once formed part of London’s defensive walls.

Although its surrounding structures have long since disappeared, the WELL Tower offers a rare glimpse into London’s Norman past. Its weathered stone walls and narrow windows speak of a time when the Normans ruled with an iron grip, fortifying their control over the newly conquered city. The tower is a must-see for anyone interested in the Norman influence on London’s development.

7. Winchester Palace: Mediaeval Grandeur

Once one of the grandest buildings in London, Winchester Palace was the London residence of the powerful Bishops of Winchester during the Middle Ages. Built in the 12th century, it was a lavish complex with a great hall, cloisters, and even a riverside garden. Today, all that remains of this once-magnificent structure is the western wall of the great hall, which stands as a lonely monument to the past.

The most striking feature of the ruins is the large rose window, which still bears the intricate stone tracery of its original design. Standing before this weathered relic, you can easily imagine the grandeur of Winchester Palace in its heyday. The ruins are a poignant reminder of London’s mediaeval history, now quietly nestled among the city’s bustling streets.

8. St. Alphage Church: A Forgotten London Parish

Hidden in plain sight, the ruins of St. Alphage Church are easy to miss as you wander through the Barbican area. Once a thriving parish church, St. Alphage’s origins date back to the 11th century, although the current ruins date from the 14th century. The church was largely destroyed during the dissolution of the monasteries in the 16th century, and only fragments of the walls and a few archways remain today.

Despite its ruined state, St. Alphage is a peaceful spot to pause and reflect on London’s religious history. The remains of the church are surrounded by modern office buildings, making it a curious juxtaposition of old and new, where the past quietly endures amid the city’s constant transformation.

9. Jewel Tower: A Survivor of Westminster’s Past

Standing just across the road from the Houses of Parliament, the Jewel Tower is one of the few surviving remnants of the mediaeval Palace of Westminster. Built in the 1360s, the tower was initially constructed to house the royal treasures of Edward III and served as a secure storehouse for the king’s valuables.

Over the centuries, the Jewel Tower has had many uses, from a storage facility for parliamentary records to a testing site for official weights and measures. Today, it’s open to visitors, offering a rare chance to explore a mediaeval structure that has witnessed the rise and fall of dynasties, the execution of kings, and the birth of modern British politics.

10. Sutton Hoo: Saxon Secrets in the British Museum

Though not a ruin in the traditional sense, Sutton Hoo represents one of the most extraordinary archaeological finds in British history. Located at the British Museum, this exhibit features treasures from Suffolk’s famous Anglo-Saxon burial site. Discovered in 1939, Sutton Hoo is best known for its ship burial, which included a wealth of artefacts thought to belong to a 7th-century Anglo-Saxon king.

The collection’s highlight is the iconic Sutton Hoo helmet, an intricately decorated piece that has become one of the most recognisable symbols of Anglo-Saxon England. While the ruins of the actual burial site are in Suffolk, the British Museum’s display offers a fascinating insight into the world of the early Anglo-Saxons and their elaborate funerary customs.

London wears its history on its sleeve, yet many of its most fascinating stories lie hidden beneath the surface. From Roman amphitheatres and temples to Norman fortresses and mediaeval palaces, these ruins offer a captivating glimpse into the past, revealing the layers of history that make London such a rich and complex city to explore. Whether you’re a history buff or simply curious about the city’s hidden corners, these ancient sites are well worth a visit.

Somerset House is one of London’s most prominent neoclassical buildings, standing grandly on the banks of the River Thames. Its elegant Georgian façade conceals centuries of history. Built on land once occupied by palaces and ancient streets, it has seen a parade of royal, political, and artistic figures walk its grounds. But beyond its striking appearance, the real mystery lies below the surface.

In 2011, archaeologists, led by King’s College London, launched an excavation at Somerset House. With a historical backdrop so rich, expectations were high. But what the archaeologists unearthed surprised even the most seasoned experts, revealing a window into the city’s deep past, from Saxon settlements to Tudor transformations.

The 2011 Excavation: A Peek Below the Surface

In 2011, King’s College London, whose buildings adjoin Somerset House, undertook an excavation beneath the house’s east wing. The goal was initially straightforward: to better understand the site’s mediaeval origins and how they had evolved over time. The project was also driven by a practical need—the college planned to expand and needed to assess the subterranean conditions before breaking ground for new foundations.

Somerset House, already a listed building and a site of tremendous historical significance, had rarely been studied in terms of what lay beneath it. The archaeologists, therefore, embarked on the dig with hopes of uncovering something from the site’s more recent history, particularly from the Tudor or Stuart eras. Their expectations were grounded in the known fact that the land was once the site of significant Tudor-era developments. Yet, as the digging began, layers of history from much earlier periods began to reveal themselves.

Somerset House: The Birth of Grandeur

Work on Somerset House began in 1547 when Edward Seymour, the Duke of Somerset and the Lord Protector for the young King Edward VI, decided to build a palace that would rival even Hampton Court. With a vision that mixed grandiosity and personal ambition, the Duke seized prime land just off the Thames, demolishing an entire block of mediaeval buildings, including a church, to make way for his vision. This act epitomised Seymour’s rapacious nature and left a bitter legacy. His desire for self-promotion would soon lead to his fall from grace, and the palace he started remained incomplete when he was arrested and executed in 1552.

After Seymour’s death, the property was returned to the Crown, eventually becoming a home for royal consorts. Elizabeth I occasionally stayed there, and her successor, James I, granted it to his wife, Anne of Denmark. Under her care, Somerset House saw an influx of Italian craftsmen and artists who embellished the already grand structure. The house remained a royal residence through the centuries, hosting a series of influential figures until it eventually evolved into the public building we know today.

But the site’s history did not begin with the Duke of Somerset’s grand ambitions. Long before the palace’s foundations were laid, the area was teeming with life, stretching back to the Saxon era. It was this hidden history that the archaeologists were eager to unearth.

The Saxon and Mediaeval Periods: Hidden Layers of Early London

As the archaeologists dug through the layers of history beneath Somerset House, they soon discovered that the area had been in use far earlier than previously thought. To their astonishment, they found traces of Saxon settlement from around the 9th century AD, marking the earliest known activity on the site. The Thames was a lifeline for these early settlers, providing both a transportation route and a source of sustenance. The excavations revealed postholes from timber structures, likely simple wooden houses that would have hugged the riverbank. Some signs of domestic life, such as animal bones and pottery fragments, were also found, giving a glimpse into the everyday lives of these early Londoners.

The significance of these Saxon finds cannot be overstated. In the 9th century, London was a small but growing settlement repeatedly harassed by Viking raids. The Saxons who lived on the site of Somerset House were part of a broader community beginning to recover from these onslaughts, slowly rebuilding a city that would soon grow into the metropolis we know today.

The excavations also revealed artefacts from the mediaeval period. By the 12th century, London was flourishing as a major European city, and the area where Somerset House now stands was likely filled with narrow streets and bustling activity. Foundations of stone buildings from this era were found, suggesting the presence of larger, more permanent structures, possibly merchant houses or small religious buildings. It is likely that this part of London, so close to the river, was involved in trade or crafts during the mediaeval period.

The most exciting discovery from this era was the remnants of a previously unknown mediaeval chapel. Though only partial foundations remained, it is believed that this small church would have been an important site for the local community, predating the church Seymour demolished to build his palace. The excavation unearthed fragments of decorated stonework and some religious artefacts, giving further credence to this theory. The exact history of this chapel remains a mystery, but it was clear that the area was not just a residential or commercial zone but also a spiritual centre.

The Tudor Era: Grand Visions and Dramatic Changes

The site’s transformation during the Tudor period was dramatic. When Edward Seymour seized the land for his palace, he wiped away much of the area’s existing mediaeval buildings. The excavation uncovered a wealth of material from this period, including foundations of large brick buildings that likely formed part of Somerset’s palace complex. This included the remnants of kitchens, storerooms, and even some sections of decorative garden walls.

Perhaps most striking was discovering a section of the palace’s original courtyard. The courtyard would have been at the heart of the palace’s activities, where nobles and courtiers gathered, and Somerset would have paraded his power. The excavated section revealed beautifully patterned stone pavements, suggesting that no expense was spared in constructing this luxurious palace. Yet, tragically for the Duke, much of this grandeur was never completed. He was executed before he could finish his dream, leaving future monarchs to shape the estate in their image.

Interestingly, the excavations also uncovered evidence of later Tudor use of the site. After Seymour’s death, Queen Elizabeth I had limited use for Somerset House. However, James I granted the property to his wife, Anne of Denmark, who undertook substantial renovations. The excavations found traces of these improvements, including fragments of Italian marble and decorated tiles, reflecting the queen’s desire to bring Renaissance splendour to her English residence. This Renaissance influence would have starkly contrasted with the more traditional Tudor architecture of the original palace.

The Transition into the Early Modern Period

As London transitioned into the early modern period, Somerset House’s role shifted. In the 17th century, royal consorts frequently used it, but its importance in the royal household declined. The archaeological findings from this period revealed a different type of use, with evidence of more mundane domestic activities. The large kitchens and storerooms of the Tudor palace were replaced by smaller, less grandiose structures, suggesting a more functional use of the space.

By the 18th century, when Somerset House was rebuilt in the neoclassical style we see today, much of the site’s earlier grandeur had been swept away. The excavations found evidence of these dramatic changes, with the foundations of older buildings cut through by the new construction. The team even found evidence of hurried demolition, as the site was cleared to make way for the new structure.

Unearthing London’s Hidden Past

The 2011 excavations at Somerset House revealed far more than anyone had expected. From the simple wooden homes of Saxon settlers to the grand courtyards of Tudor nobles, the site’s layers reflected the shifting fortunes of London.

Somerset House stands as a monument to London’s ability to reinvent itself. The excavation proved that beneath its grandeur lies a far more complex history that tells the story of the city’s people as much as its rulers. In this small patch of London, archaeologists uncovered evidence of a city constantly evolving, growing, and reshaping itself – a fitting metaphor for London itself.

Encountering a blue whale in open waters is among the most awesome things a person can experience. Seeing these gentle giants glide through the depths puts things in perspective unlike anything else in the world. But seeing a blue whale in London – now that’s something you wouldn’t expect to hear. And yet you can – well, sort of… Let us explain.

A Monument of the Unseen Giants

If you happen to have some business in the neighbourhood of Barnet, head towards Wood Street. Go past the modest houses and shops, only to encounter the towering arch formed by two enormous whale jawbones. These bones, which once belonged to the largest animal on Earth, now stand in an unexpected spot far from their oceanic origins. The Whalebones landmark has become a familiar sight for locals and an intriguing curiosity for visitors passing through. Standing beneath these bones is a strange, humbling experience. The sheer size of the structure offers a physical reminder of how enormous blue whales are. It’s as if a piece of the ocean had been plucked from the waves and settled in the middle of Barnet.

The jawbones, which reach upwards like a gateway to a world of bygone maritime adventures, have been part of the local landscape for decades. Though they’ve become part of Barnet’s identity, the story of how these whale bones ended here is a tale full of unlikely events and surprising twists.

The Circus Comes to Town: Installing the Whalebones in 1939

The jawbones arrived in Barnet in a lorry via Hull in 1939. The event felt like a grand spectacle, almost like a travelling circus rolling into town. As construction crews prepared to install these enormous bones, a quiet residential area was suddenly abuzz with activity. The bones were sourced from a blue whale and delivered from Norway. However, turning these massive pieces of natural history into a sturdy archway wasn’t simple.

For starters, the bones were not just large but unwieldy. Moving them into position took careful planning, involving the frantic efforts of half a dozen workers. The locals gathered to watch the show as the construction crew manoeuvred these whale bones into place. It was a strange sight – not something you’d expect to see in a quiet London suburb. Children stood wide-eyed as these gigantic bones slowly rose into the air.

The crew had to ensure the bones were stable, balancing their weight and securing them to a strong foundation. The bones were arranged in an arch, reminiscent of the prows of Viking ships or the entrance to a mythical kingdom. To many, it felt like something out of a storybook, a doorway to another world. Once installed, the structure quickly became a landmark. Even today, the sense of wonder remains.

From the Ocean to Barnet: The Origins of the Whalebones

So how did these whale bones end up in Barnet in the first place? The answer lies in the history of a house that stood on Wood Street, a property known as Whalebones. The house was built in 1815, and the name Whalebones first appeared on a map in 1872, and the house had always been something of a local curiosity. While the exact reason for the estate’s peculiar name is shrouded in mystery, many believe it was linked to the house’s most prominent resident – no other than the famous polar explorer, Sir John Franklin. Over time, the property’s name became synonymous with the giant jawbones at the entrance, giving the house an air of exoticism and adventure.

The bones themselves came from Norway. In the 19th century, whale hunting was a massive industry in Norway, where the rich waters of the North Atlantic provided ample opportunity for capturing these giant creatures. The Norwegian company that delivered the bones to Barnet was part of this booming industry. In a world where whaling was still common, exporting such bones was not unusual. However, the idea of using these bones as an architectural feature in a quiet London suburb was unusual. Yet that’s exactly what happened.

The house, Whalebones, remained a prominent feature in Barnet until its eventual demolition in the mid-20th century. But the bones remained a curious relic of the estate and the oceanic giants that once ruled the seas.

A Fight for Whalebones: The Housing Development Controversy

While the bones have stood for decades, their future has not always been secure. In 2019, a major development proposal threatened to change the landscape of Whalebones forever. A housing complex of 152 new homes was proposed for the site, and this plan immediately met with strong opposition from the local community.

Like much of London, Barnet has faced increasing pressure to meet housing demands. Developers often look for large open spaces where they can build new homes. The Whalebones estate, with its expansive grounds, seemed an attractive option for such a project. However, for many in Barnet, Whalebones was more than just a convenient plot of land. It symbolised the area’s unique heritage, a landmark that had stood for generations.

Local residents, conservation groups, and heritage organisations rallied to oppose the development. For them, the Whalebones were not just relics of the past but a crucial part of Barnet’s identity. They argued that the bones and the green space around them must be preserved for future generations. The proposal to replace the bones with a housing complex felt like erasing a piece of history.

The campaign to save Whalebones was fierce and passionate. Letters were written, petitions were signed, and public meetings were held. The message was clear: Whalebones belonged to Barnet and should remain untouched. The debate lasted for months, with both sides presenting their arguments. For the developers, the housing shortage was a pressing concern. For the locals, however, the loss of Whalebones would have been a cultural tragedy.

In 2020, the proposal was officially rejected. The community’s efforts had paid off, and the Whalebones were saved. The jawbones remain standing, a testament to both Barnet’s maritime connections and the power of local action.

Whalebones Today: A Piece of Barnet’s Soul

Today, Whalebones is more than just a quirky landmark. It’s a reminder of Barnet’s long history, a piece of the past that connects the area to the wider world. It also symbolises how communities can come together to protect the places that matter to them.

While the original Whalebones house is long gone, and the area around it has changed, the archway of blue whale jawbones remains a striking and unusual feature. It echoes a time when maritime adventures and exotic discoveries captured the public’s imagination. In an era when London was a hub of global exploration, the idea of bringing something as monumental as whale bones back to the city wasn’t just plausible—it was thrilling.

The Whalebones link the natural world and the urban environment, a meeting point between land and sea. They remind us of the sheer scale of the creatures that inhabit our oceans and the way humans have interacted with them over the centuries. Meeting a blue whale in Barnet might seem impossible, but standing under the Whalebones arch, you’re closer to the giants of the deep than you might think.

Beneath the waves of the Thames Estuary, just off the shore of Purfleet, Essex, lie the remnants of an ancient woodland, a submerged forest that dates back millennia. The trees and flora, preserved in waterlogged layers of peat, tell a story of the Earth’s shifting climate and how humanity and nature must adapt when the environment changes drastically. This interplay between past and present in Purfleet’s drowned forest may offer insights into today’s climate concerns, as rising sea levels once again threaten coastal habitats and resources.

From Ice to Forest: How the Thames Valley Transformed

Around 10,000 years ago, as the last Ice Age began to retreat, vast glaciers covering Northern Europe and Britain slowly melted, dramatically altering the landscape. As glaciers receded, they left behind glacial deposits, rich soils, and new habitats, leading to the flourishing of woodlands. Once a broad, ice-bound plain, the Thames Valley transformed into a vibrant river valley where forests took root in the rich alluvial soil.

Approximately 6,000 years ago, a climate shift led to more temperate conditions. This shift allowed the Purfleet forest to emerge, with trees like elm, ash, alder, and hazel taking root. The diversity of trees indicates that Purfleet once boasted a healthy, dense forest that likely extended for miles. Researchers estimate that these forests peaked around 4000 BCE, with species thriving along the banks of a then-narrower Thames River.

As the landscape warmed, plants and animals adapted to the valley’s new ecology, with flora like alder thriving in wetter soils and ash occupying higher, drier ground. These environmental zones supported different species, creating a mosaic of biodiversity. For humans, who had entered the Neolithic era by this time, this fertile area would have been a treasure trove for hunting, gathering, and, eventually, early agriculture.

Rising Seas and the Slow Drowning of the Forest

The same warming trend that encouraged this forest’s growth eventually led to its downfall. As the glaciers melted, the massive influx of water caused global sea levels to rise steadily. These processes shaped the Thames estuary itself, with the river expanding as it absorbed these higher sea levels. What was once a valley forest along the banks of the Thames began to see the first signs of submersion.

By 4000 BCE, sea levels had risen enough to encroach on Purfleet’s woodlands. Every tidal surge brought in more water, gradually transforming the forest floor into an intertidal zone. Over time, the dense forest gave way to wetlands, with the sea advancing inland and claiming more land each year. The once-sturdy trees succumbed, unable to adapt quickly enough to the changing water levels. Eventually, this encroaching sea buried the forest under silt, peat, and clay, preserving much of its remnants in anaerobic conditions.

These preserved trees, their stumps still visible at low tide, remind us of the impact that even slight fluctuations in sea level can have on the environment. For scientists, they also represent a near-perfect time capsule of Earth’s climatic past.

The Fate of Nearby Forests: Rainham and Erith

The Purfleet forest wasn’t alone in its fate. Similar forests once thrived along the banks of the Thames at Rainham and Erith, where riverine woods also saw their slow drowning due to sea level rise. These areas, too, were transformed from thriving forests into intertidal zones. At Rainham, preserved remnants of ancient trees share the same history as those at Purfleet, showing a broad mix of oak, yew, and alder species. This similarity between submerged forests across the Thames region suggests a widespread impact of climate changes around the same time.

Such remnants along the Thames provide a regional snapshot of the past and a sense of the once-interconnected woodlands that lined its banks. Each area offers unique insights into how forests respond to the dynamic balance between land and sea. While Erith and Rainham are more frequently studied, Purfleet stands out due to its distinct species composition and how its remnants have been preserved through natural and human-caused sedimentation.

Human Connection to the Thames and the Impact of Rising Waters

For the ancient peoples who settled along the Thames, the forest was more than just a part of the landscape; it was an essential resource. Neolithic communities likely relied on the Thames’s riverine forests for wood, food, and materials. Discoveries of flint tools, stone axes, and pottery fragments suggest that people hunted, gathered, and possibly even lived in or near these forests. This woodland was a physical space and an ecosystem supporting early human culture.

Human groups faced significant environmental challenges as the climate warmed and sea levels rose. These communities likely adapted by relocating or adjusting their living habits to cope with the advancing waters. The loss of forested land due to encroaching tides would have forced these communities to find new ways to obtain resources or travel further inland to find suitable habitats. In this way, the Thames Valley provides an early example of human resilience and adaptability to changing climates.

Over time, as forests like Purfleet’s disappeared beneath the water, early human settlements would have experienced increased pressure on resources. This shift possibly influenced migratory patterns, prompting some groups to move further inland to drier, more secure regions. This environmental push helped shape the distribution of human populations across the region and even influenced cultural evolution as communities responded to ecological pressures.

Lessons for Today: The Past as a Mirror of the Present

The fate of the Purfleet forest offers valuable lessons for the present as modern societies grapple with rising sea levels and climate change. Much like the ancient woodland, today’s coastal regions face similar threats from the encroaching sea. Modern geological studies of submerged forests like Purfleet’s enable scientists to reconstruct past climate conditions and provide essential data on historical sea-level changes. By understanding these ancient shifts, we know how rising tides may reshape modern landscapes, affecting biodiversity and human societies.

With climate models projecting significant sea level increases over the next century, the lessons from Purfleet resonate more than ever. Current coastal erosion patterns show that cities, farmlands, and natural habitats worldwide risk being submerged if global warming trends continue. The example of Purfleet’s slow transformation reminds us that the Earth’s systems are interconnected, and even seemingly minor changes can lead to significant, often irreversible, environmental shifts.

The submerged forest also provides an educational platform for local communities, directly linking to geological and environmental science. Efforts by conservation groups and local councils to preserve and study Purfleet’s forest remains underscore the importance of this ancient site, not just as a relic of the past but as a touchpoint for today’s environmental discussions.

Rediscovering and Preserving Ancient Forests

Interest in sites like Purfleet has grown as scientists and historians continue to uncover the depth of these submerged landscapes. Local organisations have highlighted the importance of these ancient ecosystems, helping to raise awareness about the Thames Estuary’s unique ecological history. Modern preservation efforts seek to protect these sites, not only to understand past climates but also to inspire sustainable practices today. The submerged Purfleet forest is both a scientific resource and a reminder of nature’s power and fragility in the face of climate change.

Through understanding the submerged forest at Purfleet, we glimpse a time when vast woodlands thrived along the Thames—a landscape now changed but not entirely lost. This ancient woodland, preserved beneath the mud, is a powerful reminder of the Earth’s constant change and the delicate balance between land and sea. Today, as coastal regions around the world confront similar threats, the story of Purfleet’s lost forest reminds us that even the most resilient ecosystems are not immune to the impacts of climate change. Our ability to learn from these past changes may very well shape the future of how we, too, adapt to our planet’s shifting landscape.