The Southwark Cathedral: Trying to Unpack the Historical Facts Around the 606 AD Claim

Beneath the waves of the Thames Estuary, just off the shore of Purfleet, Essex, lie the remnants of an ancient woodland, a submerged forest that dates back millennia. The trees and flora, preserved in waterlogged layers of peat, tell a story of the Earth’s shifting climate and how humanity and nature must adapt when the environment changes drastically. This interplay between past and present in Purfleet’s drowned forest may offer insights into today’s climate concerns, as rising sea levels once again threaten coastal habitats and resources.

From Ice to Forest: How the Thames Valley Transformed

Around 10,000 years ago, as the last Ice Age began to retreat, vast glaciers covering Northern Europe and Britain slowly melted, dramatically altering the landscape. As glaciers receded, they left behind glacial deposits, rich soils, and new habitats, leading to the flourishing of woodlands. Once a broad, ice-bound plain, the Thames Valley transformed into a vibrant river valley where forests took root in the rich alluvial soil.

Approximately 6,000 years ago, a climate shift led to more temperate conditions. This shift allowed the Purfleet forest to emerge, with trees like elm, ash, alder, and hazel taking root. The diversity of trees indicates that Purfleet once boasted a healthy, dense forest that likely extended for miles. Researchers estimate that these forests peaked around 4000 BCE, with species thriving along the banks of a then-narrower Thames River.

As the landscape warmed, plants and animals adapted to the valley’s new ecology, with flora like alder thriving in wetter soils and ash occupying higher, drier ground. These environmental zones supported different species, creating a mosaic of biodiversity. For humans, who had entered the Neolithic era by this time, this fertile area would have been a treasure trove for hunting, gathering, and, eventually, early agriculture.

Rising Seas and the Slow Drowning of the Forest

The same warming trend that encouraged this forest’s growth eventually led to its downfall. As the glaciers melted, the massive influx of water caused global sea levels to rise steadily. These processes shaped the Thames estuary itself, with the river expanding as it absorbed these higher sea levels. What was once a valley forest along the banks of the Thames began to see the first signs of submersion.

By 4000 BCE, sea levels had risen enough to encroach on Purfleet’s woodlands. Every tidal surge brought in more water, gradually transforming the forest floor into an intertidal zone. Over time, the dense forest gave way to wetlands, with the sea advancing inland and claiming more land each year. The once-sturdy trees succumbed, unable to adapt quickly enough to the changing water levels. Eventually, this encroaching sea buried the forest under silt, peat, and clay, preserving much of its remnants in anaerobic conditions.

These preserved trees, their stumps still visible at low tide, remind us of the impact that even slight fluctuations in sea level can have on the environment. For scientists, they also represent a near-perfect time capsule of Earth’s climatic past.

The Fate of Nearby Forests: Rainham and Erith

The Purfleet forest wasn’t alone in its fate. Similar forests once thrived along the banks of the Thames at Rainham and Erith, where riverine woods also saw their slow drowning due to sea level rise. These areas, too, were transformed from thriving forests into intertidal zones. At Rainham, preserved remnants of ancient trees share the same history as those at Purfleet, showing a broad mix of oak, yew, and alder species. This similarity between submerged forests across the Thames region suggests a widespread impact of climate changes around the same time.

Such remnants along the Thames provide a regional snapshot of the past and a sense of the once-interconnected woodlands that lined its banks. Each area offers unique insights into how forests respond to the dynamic balance between land and sea. While Erith and Rainham are more frequently studied, Purfleet stands out due to its distinct species composition and how its remnants have been preserved through natural and human-caused sedimentation.

Human Connection to the Thames and the Impact of Rising Waters

For the ancient peoples who settled along the Thames, the forest was more than just a part of the landscape; it was an essential resource. Neolithic communities likely relied on the Thames’s riverine forests for wood, food, and materials. Discoveries of flint tools, stone axes, and pottery fragments suggest that people hunted, gathered, and possibly even lived in or near these forests. This woodland was a physical space and an ecosystem supporting early human culture.

Human groups faced significant environmental challenges as the climate warmed and sea levels rose. These communities likely adapted by relocating or adjusting their living habits to cope with the advancing waters. The loss of forested land due to encroaching tides would have forced these communities to find new ways to obtain resources or travel further inland to find suitable habitats. In this way, the Thames Valley provides an early example of human resilience and adaptability to changing climates.

Over time, as forests like Purfleet’s disappeared beneath the water, early human settlements would have experienced increased pressure on resources. This shift possibly influenced migratory patterns, prompting some groups to move further inland to drier, more secure regions. This environmental push helped shape the distribution of human populations across the region and even influenced cultural evolution as communities responded to ecological pressures.

Lessons for Today: The Past as a Mirror of the Present

The fate of the Purfleet forest offers valuable lessons for the present as modern societies grapple with rising sea levels and climate change. Much like the ancient woodland, today’s coastal regions face similar threats from the encroaching sea. Modern geological studies of submerged forests like Purfleet’s enable scientists to reconstruct past climate conditions and provide essential data on historical sea-level changes. By understanding these ancient shifts, we know how rising tides may reshape modern landscapes, affecting biodiversity and human societies.

With climate models projecting significant sea level increases over the next century, the lessons from Purfleet resonate more than ever. Current coastal erosion patterns show that cities, farmlands, and natural habitats worldwide risk being submerged if global warming trends continue. The example of Purfleet’s slow transformation reminds us that the Earth’s systems are interconnected, and even seemingly minor changes can lead to significant, often irreversible, environmental shifts.

The submerged forest also provides an educational platform for local communities, directly linking to geological and environmental science. Efforts by conservation groups and local councils to preserve and study Purfleet’s forest remains underscore the importance of this ancient site, not just as a relic of the past but as a touchpoint for today’s environmental discussions.

Rediscovering and Preserving Ancient Forests

Interest in sites like Purfleet has grown as scientists and historians continue to uncover the depth of these submerged landscapes. Local organisations have highlighted the importance of these ancient ecosystems, helping to raise awareness about the Thames Estuary’s unique ecological history. Modern preservation efforts seek to protect these sites, not only to understand past climates but also to inspire sustainable practices today. The submerged Purfleet forest is both a scientific resource and a reminder of nature’s power and fragility in the face of climate change.

Through understanding the submerged forest at Purfleet, we glimpse a time when vast woodlands thrived along the Thames—a landscape now changed but not entirely lost. This ancient woodland, preserved beneath the mud, is a powerful reminder of the Earth’s constant change and the delicate balance between land and sea. Today, as coastal regions around the world confront similar threats, the story of Purfleet’s lost forest reminds us that even the most resilient ecosystems are not immune to the impacts of climate change. Our ability to learn from these past changes may very well shape the future of how we, too, adapt to our planet’s shifting landscape.

Encountering a blue whale in open waters is among the most awesome things a person can experience. Seeing these gentle giants glide through the depths puts things in perspective unlike anything else in the world. But seeing a blue whale in London – now that’s something you wouldn’t expect to hear. And yet you can – well, sort of… Let us explain.

A Monument of the Unseen Giants

If you happen to have some business in the neighbourhood of Barnet, head towards Wood Street. Go past the modest houses and shops, only to encounter the towering arch formed by two enormous whale jawbones. These bones, which once belonged to the largest animal on Earth, now stand in an unexpected spot far from their oceanic origins. The Whalebones landmark has become a familiar sight for locals and an intriguing curiosity for visitors passing through. Standing beneath these bones is a strange, humbling experience. The sheer size of the structure offers a physical reminder of how enormous blue whales are. It’s as if a piece of the ocean had been plucked from the waves and settled in the middle of Barnet.

The jawbones, which reach upwards like a gateway to a world of bygone maritime adventures, have been part of the local landscape for decades. Though they’ve become part of Barnet’s identity, the story of how these whale bones ended here is a tale full of unlikely events and surprising twists.

The Circus Comes to Town: Installing the Whalebones in 1939

The jawbones arrived in Barnet in a lorry via Hull in 1939. The event felt like a grand spectacle, almost like a travelling circus rolling into town. As construction crews prepared to install these enormous bones, a quiet residential area was suddenly abuzz with activity. The bones were sourced from a blue whale and delivered from Norway. However, turning these massive pieces of natural history into a sturdy archway wasn’t simple.

For starters, the bones were not just large but unwieldy. Moving them into position took careful planning, involving the frantic efforts of half a dozen workers. The locals gathered to watch the show as the construction crew manoeuvred these whale bones into place. It was a strange sight – not something you’d expect to see in a quiet London suburb. Children stood wide-eyed as these gigantic bones slowly rose into the air.

The crew had to ensure the bones were stable, balancing their weight and securing them to a strong foundation. The bones were arranged in an arch, reminiscent of the prows of Viking ships or the entrance to a mythical kingdom. To many, it felt like something out of a storybook, a doorway to another world. Once installed, the structure quickly became a landmark. Even today, the sense of wonder remains.

From the Ocean to Barnet: The Origins of the Whalebones

So how did these whale bones end up in Barnet in the first place? The answer lies in the history of a house that stood on Wood Street, a property known as Whalebones. The house was built in 1815, and the name Whalebones first appeared on a map in 1872, and the house had always been something of a local curiosity. While the exact reason for the estate’s peculiar name is shrouded in mystery, many believe it was linked to the house’s most prominent resident – no other than the famous polar explorer, Sir John Franklin. Over time, the property’s name became synonymous with the giant jawbones at the entrance, giving the house an air of exoticism and adventure.

The bones themselves came from Norway. In the 19th century, whale hunting was a massive industry in Norway, where the rich waters of the North Atlantic provided ample opportunity for capturing these giant creatures. The Norwegian company that delivered the bones to Barnet was part of this booming industry. In a world where whaling was still common, exporting such bones was not unusual. However, the idea of using these bones as an architectural feature in a quiet London suburb was unusual. Yet that’s exactly what happened.

The house, Whalebones, remained a prominent feature in Barnet until its eventual demolition in the mid-20th century. But the bones remained a curious relic of the estate and the oceanic giants that once ruled the seas.

A Fight for Whalebones: The Housing Development Controversy

While the bones have stood for decades, their future has not always been secure. In 2019, a major development proposal threatened to change the landscape of Whalebones forever. A housing complex of 152 new homes was proposed for the site, and this plan immediately met with strong opposition from the local community.

Like much of London, Barnet has faced increasing pressure to meet housing demands. Developers often look for large open spaces where they can build new homes. The Whalebones estate, with its expansive grounds, seemed an attractive option for such a project. However, for many in Barnet, Whalebones was more than just a convenient plot of land. It symbolised the area’s unique heritage, a landmark that had stood for generations.

Local residents, conservation groups, and heritage organisations rallied to oppose the development. For them, the Whalebones were not just relics of the past but a crucial part of Barnet’s identity. They argued that the bones and the green space around them must be preserved for future generations. The proposal to replace the bones with a housing complex felt like erasing a piece of history.

The campaign to save Whalebones was fierce and passionate. Letters were written, petitions were signed, and public meetings were held. The message was clear: Whalebones belonged to Barnet and should remain untouched. The debate lasted for months, with both sides presenting their arguments. For the developers, the housing shortage was a pressing concern. For the locals, however, the loss of Whalebones would have been a cultural tragedy.

In 2020, the proposal was officially rejected. The community’s efforts had paid off, and the Whalebones were saved. The jawbones remain standing, a testament to both Barnet’s maritime connections and the power of local action.

Whalebones Today: A Piece of Barnet’s Soul

Today, Whalebones is more than just a quirky landmark. It’s a reminder of Barnet’s long history, a piece of the past that connects the area to the wider world. It also symbolises how communities can come together to protect the places that matter to them.

While the original Whalebones house is long gone, and the area around it has changed, the archway of blue whale jawbones remains a striking and unusual feature. It echoes a time when maritime adventures and exotic discoveries captured the public’s imagination. In an era when London was a hub of global exploration, the idea of bringing something as monumental as whale bones back to the city wasn’t just plausible—it was thrilling.

The Whalebones link the natural world and the urban environment, a meeting point between land and sea. They remind us of the sheer scale of the creatures that inhabit our oceans and the way humans have interacted with them over the centuries. Meeting a blue whale in Barnet might seem impossible, but standing under the Whalebones arch, you’re closer to the giants of the deep than you might think.

We all know the most imposing structures that remind us of London’s medieval grandeur—Westminster Abbey, the Tower of London, Jewel Tower, Winchester Palace. But there are so many other great buildings we have lost—churches, forts, and townhouses—that have equally fascinating histories to the ones that survived.

Among the lost treasures of this city’s architectural heritage are two buildings that have vanished from the skyline but still linger in legend and lore: Baynard’s Castle. These two structures, built centuries apart, once stood as imposing strongholds, power bases, and settings for some of the most pivotal events in English history. From the Normans to the Tudors, Baynard’s Castle has witnessed it all.

Let’s take a tantalising glimpse at these two Baynard’s Castles and uncover the layers of history, legend, and power they embody.

Baynard’s Castle: The Norman Stronghold

Medieval chronicles suggest the existence of a stronghold at the junction of the rivers Thames and Fleet as early as the reign of Canute the Great. If that is the case, the first Baynard’s Castle might have been rebuilt or reinforced an already existing structure soon after William the Conqueror’s invasion of England in 1066. It was strategically located where the River Fleet flowed into the mighty Thames, just southwest of modern-day St Paul’s Cathedral. This area was a key spot, not just for defence but also for controlling London’s vital river traffic. The Fleet was more of a substantial waterway back then, and Baynard’s Castle guarded this crucial junction.

Ralph Baynard, one of William the Conqueror’s trusted Norman barons and the first Sheriff of Essex, constructed the fortification. A stalwart supporter of the new king, Ralph Baynard was granted substantial land holdings in Essex and London, including the land on which Baynard’s Castle would rise. This Ralph Baynard may well have been the same “Bainardius” mentioned in the Domesday Book, though his exact lineage remains a tantalising mystery.

The Norman castle stood as a traditional motte-and-bailey structure, a wooden keep on an earthen mound. Given its location on the banks of the Thames, it was also well-positioned for riverine defence, securing London’s western flank. Baynard’s Castle would have commanded an impressive view of the river, and its fortifications added to the growing dominance of Norman architecture in a newly conquered England.

But Baynard’s Castle was not merely a fort. Over time, it grew in importance and was associated with some of the most influential families in medieval England, eventually being owned by one of the key figures in the legendary tales of Robin Hood.

Marian Fitzwalter: From Castle Walls to Folklore

By the early 13th century, Baynard’s Castle had passed into the hands of Robert Fitzwalter, a powerful baron and one of the leaders of the Baron’s Revolt against King John. Fitzwalter was a fascinating character, both a rebel and a nobleman, whose life intersected with some of the most famous figures in English legend.

According to folklore, Fitzwalter’s daughter, Marian Fitzwalter, was none other than Maid Marian, the beloved of Robin Hood. Marian the Fair, as she was called, is said to have grown up in the castle, where her beauty and noble spirit captured the hearts of many—including, according to legend, the outlaw Robin Hood. Whether or not this is true, the association between Marian Fitzwalter and Maid Marian has become deeply rooted in England’s folklore. However, it is a historical fact that she caught the eye of no other but King John himself, and his scandalous advances might have provoked the ensuing crisis.

As for her father, Robert Fitzwalter’s rebellion against King John culminated in the Magna Carta’s signing. His leadership in the revolt, however, came at a cost. In retaliation for his disobedience, King John ordered the destruction of Baynard’s Castle. On January 14, 1213, the once-formidable fortress was razed to the ground. The site would remain a ruin for over a century, a silent witness to London’s turbulent past.

The New Baynard’s Castle: A Yorkist Stronghold

In the early 15th century, a new building emerged near the ruins of the original castle, known in the records as a “Hospice called le Old Inne by Pauls Wharfe”. This new Baynard’s Castle, located slightly southeast of its predecessor, near Queenhithe, was less of a defensive fortress and more of a grand, fortified house. It was no longer a Norman outpost but an aristocratic residence.

Baynard’s Castle became particularly significant during the Wars of the Roses, a series of civil wars that gripped England in the 15th century. The Yorkist branch of the Plantagenets used the castle as their London headquarters. During this time, it became a focal point of political intrigue and military strategy. Edward IV, one of the Yorkist claimants to the throne, was known to have gathered his forces there before seizing power. It was at Baynard’s Castle that Edward was proclaimed king, marking one of the most dramatic shifts in English history.

The castle’s new role as a political nerve centre made it more than just an impressive residence. It symbolised the Plantagenet claim to the throne and was a stronghold of legitimacy during the turbulent times of civil war.

Tudor Grandeur and Political Drama

Baynard’s Castle played a vital role in English politics as the Wars of the Roses gave way to the Tudor dynasty. After the victory of Henry VII, the first Tudor king, the royal family repaired and used the house. It was eventually inherited by Henry VIII, who in turn bestowed it upon his first wife, Catherine of Aragon, as part of her dowry. The grandeur and prestige of Baynard’s Castle were undeniable, as it became a key royal residence in the early years of Henry’s reign.

After Catherine’s fall from favour, Baynard’s Castle passed to the Earl of Pembroke, brother-in-law to Henry’s final wife, Catherine Parr. The castle would become a backdrop for some of the most critical events in Tudor politics.

One of the most notable moments in the castle’s history occurred in 1553, during the political crisis that followed the death of Edward VI. Edward, the young Protestant king, had named Lady Jane Grey as his successor, bypassing his Catholic sister Mary. However, this decision proved deeply unpopular. It was at Baynard’s Castle that the Privy Council convened to end Jane’s brief reign and proclaim Mary Tudor as the rightful queen of England. This dramatic shift of power from Protestant to Catholic monarch changed the course of the country’s history, all within the castle’s historic walls.

The Great Fire of 1666: Baynard’s Castle Lost

For all its grandeur, Baynard’s Castle could not escape the devastating events of the Great Fire of London in 1666. Like so many of the city’s landmarks, it was consumed by the flames that swept through London, leaving only smouldering ruins in its wake. The fire, which started in a bakery on Pudding Lane, destroyed much of the city, including St Paul’s Cathedral, and swept west along the Thames. Being so close to the river, Baynard’s Castle was among the many casualties.

London was rebuilt in the aftermath of the fire, but Baynard’s Castle was not. Unlike St Paul’s, which rose again from the ashes, Baynard’s Castle faded into memory, its stones buried beneath the city’s redevelopment.

A Glimpse of What Remains

Today, the legacy of Baynard’s Castle endures in the names of the streets and areas around the site where it once stood. Baynard House, an office block constructed in the 1970s, sits on the approximate location of the original Norman fort, while the surrounding Baynard Street and Castle Baynard Ward further remind the castle’s historical significance.

Though little remains of the actual structure, the stories of the two Baynard’s Castles live on, woven into the fabric of London’s history. From Ralph Baynard’s Norman fortress to the political drama of the Tudors, Baynard’s Castle remains a symbol of the city’s ever-changing landscape—an enduring reminder of London’s past, where legends and history intertwine.

London’s skyline might look like the cover of a sci-fi novel, but it will not take you long to find the traces of its two-millennia-long urban history. The bustling capital of Roman Britannia lost much of its lustre in the Dark Ages, but it still attracted the attention of the Vikings and the Normans after them. You can still find them all on the city streets – Romans, Saxons, Vikings and the English of the early Plantagenet era. You just have to know where to look.

1. The Roman Amphitheatre: Echoes of Gladiators

Buried beneath the bustling Guildhall in the heart of the City of London lies the Roman Amphitheatre, a site that has been forgotten for centuries. Discovered only in 1988 during redevelopment work, this ancient arena once held up to 7,000 spectators who gathered to watch gladiators fight for glory.

The remains of the amphitheatre’s stone walls and timber seating outline what was once the stage for bloody contests and Roman sports. As you wander through the exposed foundations, you can almost hear the roars of the crowd and feel the tension in the air as gladiators prepared for battle. Today, the amphitheatre has been cleverly incorporated into the Guildhall Art Gallery, allowing visitors to experience this hidden slice of Roman Britain while admiring fine art.

2. The Wall of Londinium: Roman Fortifications

The Wall of Londinium is one of the city’s most enduring remnants of its Roman past. Erected around 200 AD, the wall stretched for over three miles, encircling the Roman town of Londinium and offering protection from Saxon raiders. Much of it has since crumbled or been built over, but fragments can still be seen in several locations around the city.

One of the best-preserved sections can be found near Tower Hill, where you’ll spot the imposing stonework peeking through the modern cityscape. Walking along the ruins gives you a sense of the fortifications’ original grandeur, and it’s easy to imagine Roman soldiers pacing along its length, standing guard over a bustling Londinium.

3. Billingsgate Roman House & Baths: Life in Ancient London

Tucked away beneath the bustling streets of modern-day London lies the Billingsgate Roman House & Baths. This archaeological treasure offers a fascinating glimpse into domestic life in Roman Britain. Discovered in the 19th century during building work, this well-preserved site includes the foundations of a Roman house and its accompanying bathhouse.

The bathhouse was a central part of Roman social life, and the Billingsgate site provides a detailed look at how Roman Londoners enjoyed their leisure time. Visitors can walk around the remnants of heated floors, plunge pools, and steam rooms, all beautifully preserved. While relatively small, the site offers a window into the everyday luxuries enjoyed by wealthy Romans nearly two thousand years ago.

4. Spitalfields Charnel House: A Forgotten Burial Ground

Located in the heart of the East End, Spitalfields Charnel House is one of London’s more eerie ruins. This 14th-century burial vault was part of the mediaeval priory of St Mary Spital and served as a resting place for hundreds of human remains. In case you’re wondering, a charnel house was used to store bones when a cemetery became overcrowded.

Long forgotten, the Spitalfields Charnel House was rediscovered in the late 1990s during a development project. Today, visitors can explore this haunting site, where the stone walls still exude a faint chill. Though its origins were purely practical, it’s hard not to feel the weight of history when standing among the remains of London’s mediaeval past.

5. The London Mithraeum: A Secret Roman Temple

Deep beneath the towering skyscrapers of the City of London lies the London Mithraeum, a hidden gem that once served as a temple to the god Mithras. Originally built in the 3rd century AD, this subterranean temple was used for secret rituals by followers of the Mithraic cult, a mysterious religion popular among Roman soldiers.

The Mithraeum was discovered in 1954 during excavation work and has since been meticulously reconstructed. Visitors can now descend into the depths of the Bloomberg building to experience a hauntingly atmospheric recreation of the ancient temple, complete with projections and soundscapes that bring the rituals of the past to life. It’s a fascinating reminder of the strange and diverse religious practices that once flourished in Roman London.

6. WELL Tower: London’s Hidden Norman Fortress

Tucked away in an unassuming corner of central London stands the WELL Tower, a hidden fragment of Norman architecture that’s easy to overlook but impossible to forget once you’ve spotted it. Built shortly after the Norman Conquest in the late 11th century, the WELL Tower is all that remains of a much larger complex that once formed part of London’s defensive walls.

Although its surrounding structures have long since disappeared, the WELL Tower offers a rare glimpse into London’s Norman past. Its weathered stone walls and narrow windows speak of a time when the Normans ruled with an iron grip, fortifying their control over the newly conquered city. The tower is a must-see for anyone interested in the Norman influence on London’s development.

7. Winchester Palace: Mediaeval Grandeur

Once one of the grandest buildings in London, Winchester Palace was the London residence of the powerful Bishops of Winchester during the Middle Ages. Built in the 12th century, it was a lavish complex with a great hall, cloisters, and even a riverside garden. Today, all that remains of this once-magnificent structure is the western wall of the great hall, which stands as a lonely monument to the past.

The most striking feature of the ruins is the large rose window, which still bears the intricate stone tracery of its original design. Standing before this weathered relic, you can easily imagine the grandeur of Winchester Palace in its heyday. The ruins are a poignant reminder of London’s mediaeval history, now quietly nestled among the city’s bustling streets.

8. St. Alphage Church: A Forgotten London Parish

Hidden in plain sight, the ruins of St. Alphage Church are easy to miss as you wander through the Barbican area. Once a thriving parish church, St. Alphage’s origins date back to the 11th century, although the current ruins date from the 14th century. The church was largely destroyed during the dissolution of the monasteries in the 16th century, and only fragments of the walls and a few archways remain today.

Despite its ruined state, St. Alphage is a peaceful spot to pause and reflect on London’s religious history. The remains of the church are surrounded by modern office buildings, making it a curious juxtaposition of old and new, where the past quietly endures amid the city’s constant transformation.

9. Jewel Tower: A Survivor of Westminster’s Past

Standing just across the road from the Houses of Parliament, the Jewel Tower is one of the few surviving remnants of the mediaeval Palace of Westminster. Built in the 1360s, the tower was initially constructed to house the royal treasures of Edward III and served as a secure storehouse for the king’s valuables.

Over the centuries, the Jewel Tower has had many uses, from a storage facility for parliamentary records to a testing site for official weights and measures. Today, it’s open to visitors, offering a rare chance to explore a mediaeval structure that has witnessed the rise and fall of dynasties, the execution of kings, and the birth of modern British politics.

10. Sutton Hoo: Saxon Secrets in the British Museum

Though not a ruin in the traditional sense, Sutton Hoo represents one of the most extraordinary archaeological finds in British history. Located at the British Museum, this exhibit features treasures from Suffolk’s famous Anglo-Saxon burial site. Discovered in 1939, Sutton Hoo is best known for its ship burial, which included a wealth of artefacts thought to belong to a 7th-century Anglo-Saxon king.

The collection’s highlight is the iconic Sutton Hoo helmet, an intricately decorated piece that has become one of the most recognisable symbols of Anglo-Saxon England. While the ruins of the actual burial site are in Suffolk, the British Museum’s display offers a fascinating insight into the world of the early Anglo-Saxons and their elaborate funerary customs.

London wears its history on its sleeve, yet many of its most fascinating stories lie hidden beneath the surface. From Roman amphitheatres and temples to Norman fortresses and mediaeval palaces, these ruins offer a captivating glimpse into the past, revealing the layers of history that make London such a rich and complex city to explore. Whether you’re a history buff or simply curious about the city’s hidden corners, these ancient sites are well worth a visit.

Somerset House is one of London’s most prominent neoclassical buildings, standing grandly on the banks of the River Thames. Its elegant Georgian façade conceals centuries of history. Built on land once occupied by palaces and ancient streets, it has seen a parade of royal, political, and artistic figures walk its grounds. But beyond its striking appearance, the real mystery lies below the surface.

In 2011, archaeologists, led by King’s College London, launched an excavation at Somerset House. With a historical backdrop so rich, expectations were high. But what the archaeologists unearthed surprised even the most seasoned experts, revealing a window into the city’s deep past, from Saxon settlements to Tudor transformations.

The 2011 Excavation: A Peek Below the Surface

In 2011, King’s College London, whose buildings adjoin Somerset House, undertook an excavation beneath the house’s east wing. The goal was initially straightforward: to better understand the site’s mediaeval origins and how they had evolved over time. The project was also driven by a practical need—the college planned to expand and needed to assess the subterranean conditions before breaking ground for new foundations.

Somerset House, already a listed building and a site of tremendous historical significance, had rarely been studied in terms of what lay beneath it. The archaeologists, therefore, embarked on the dig with hopes of uncovering something from the site’s more recent history, particularly from the Tudor or Stuart eras. Their expectations were grounded in the known fact that the land was once the site of significant Tudor-era developments. Yet, as the digging began, layers of history from much earlier periods began to reveal themselves.

Somerset House: The Birth of Grandeur

Work on Somerset House began in 1547 when Edward Seymour, the Duke of Somerset and the Lord Protector for the young King Edward VI, decided to build a palace that would rival even Hampton Court. With a vision that mixed grandiosity and personal ambition, the Duke seized prime land just off the Thames, demolishing an entire block of mediaeval buildings, including a church, to make way for his vision. This act epitomised Seymour’s rapacious nature and left a bitter legacy. His desire for self-promotion would soon lead to his fall from grace, and the palace he started remained incomplete when he was arrested and executed in 1552.

After Seymour’s death, the property was returned to the Crown, eventually becoming a home for royal consorts. Elizabeth I occasionally stayed there, and her successor, James I, granted it to his wife, Anne of Denmark. Under her care, Somerset House saw an influx of Italian craftsmen and artists who embellished the already grand structure. The house remained a royal residence through the centuries, hosting a series of influential figures until it eventually evolved into the public building we know today.

But the site’s history did not begin with the Duke of Somerset’s grand ambitions. Long before the palace’s foundations were laid, the area was teeming with life, stretching back to the Saxon era. It was this hidden history that the archaeologists were eager to unearth.

The Saxon and Mediaeval Periods: Hidden Layers of Early London

As the archaeologists dug through the layers of history beneath Somerset House, they soon discovered that the area had been in use far earlier than previously thought. To their astonishment, they found traces of Saxon settlement from around the 9th century AD, marking the earliest known activity on the site. The Thames was a lifeline for these early settlers, providing both a transportation route and a source of sustenance. The excavations revealed postholes from timber structures, likely simple wooden houses that would have hugged the riverbank. Some signs of domestic life, such as animal bones and pottery fragments, were also found, giving a glimpse into the everyday lives of these early Londoners.

The significance of these Saxon finds cannot be overstated. In the 9th century, London was a small but growing settlement repeatedly harassed by Viking raids. The Saxons who lived on the site of Somerset House were part of a broader community beginning to recover from these onslaughts, slowly rebuilding a city that would soon grow into the metropolis we know today.

The excavations also revealed artefacts from the mediaeval period. By the 12th century, London was flourishing as a major European city, and the area where Somerset House now stands was likely filled with narrow streets and bustling activity. Foundations of stone buildings from this era were found, suggesting the presence of larger, more permanent structures, possibly merchant houses or small religious buildings. It is likely that this part of London, so close to the river, was involved in trade or crafts during the mediaeval period.

The most exciting discovery from this era was the remnants of a previously unknown mediaeval chapel. Though only partial foundations remained, it is believed that this small church would have been an important site for the local community, predating the church Seymour demolished to build his palace. The excavation unearthed fragments of decorated stonework and some religious artefacts, giving further credence to this theory. The exact history of this chapel remains a mystery, but it was clear that the area was not just a residential or commercial zone but also a spiritual centre.

The Tudor Era: Grand Visions and Dramatic Changes

The site’s transformation during the Tudor period was dramatic. When Edward Seymour seized the land for his palace, he wiped away much of the area’s existing mediaeval buildings. The excavation uncovered a wealth of material from this period, including foundations of large brick buildings that likely formed part of Somerset’s palace complex. This included the remnants of kitchens, storerooms, and even some sections of decorative garden walls.

Perhaps most striking was discovering a section of the palace’s original courtyard. The courtyard would have been at the heart of the palace’s activities, where nobles and courtiers gathered, and Somerset would have paraded his power. The excavated section revealed beautifully patterned stone pavements, suggesting that no expense was spared in constructing this luxurious palace. Yet, tragically for the Duke, much of this grandeur was never completed. He was executed before he could finish his dream, leaving future monarchs to shape the estate in their image.

Interestingly, the excavations also uncovered evidence of later Tudor use of the site. After Seymour’s death, Queen Elizabeth I had limited use for Somerset House. However, James I granted the property to his wife, Anne of Denmark, who undertook substantial renovations. The excavations found traces of these improvements, including fragments of Italian marble and decorated tiles, reflecting the queen’s desire to bring Renaissance splendour to her English residence. This Renaissance influence would have starkly contrasted with the more traditional Tudor architecture of the original palace.

The Transition into the Early Modern Period

As London transitioned into the early modern period, Somerset House’s role shifted. In the 17th century, royal consorts frequently used it, but its importance in the royal household declined. The archaeological findings from this period revealed a different type of use, with evidence of more mundane domestic activities. The large kitchens and storerooms of the Tudor palace were replaced by smaller, less grandiose structures, suggesting a more functional use of the space.

By the 18th century, when Somerset House was rebuilt in the neoclassical style we see today, much of the site’s earlier grandeur had been swept away. The excavations found evidence of these dramatic changes, with the foundations of older buildings cut through by the new construction. The team even found evidence of hurried demolition, as the site was cleared to make way for the new structure.

Unearthing London’s Hidden Past

The 2011 excavations at Somerset House revealed far more than anyone had expected. From the simple wooden homes of Saxon settlers to the grand courtyards of Tudor nobles, the site’s layers reflected the shifting fortunes of London.

Somerset House stands as a monument to London’s ability to reinvent itself. The excavation proved that beneath its grandeur lies a far more complex history that tells the story of the city’s people as much as its rulers. In this small patch of London, archaeologists uncovered evidence of a city constantly evolving, growing, and reshaping itself – a fitting metaphor for London itself.

The Jewel Tower, a small but historically significant landmark in the heart of Westminster, London, often flies under the radar of tourists and locals alike. This unassuming building, constructed in the 14th century, is one of the few remnants of the medieval Palace of Westminster that survived centuries of change, destruction, and transformation. It once housed the royal treasures of Edward III, protecting gold, silver, and other riches from thieves and fire. Today, it offers a rare glimpse into the life and architecture of medieval London. Unlike many grander sites in the capital, the Jewel Tower provides an intimate and peaceful experience, transporting visitors back to a time when England was a dominant force in Europe. Its thick walls, narrow windows, and surviving stone carvings all bear testimony to the turbulent and regal history of England, making it a truly fascinating place to explore.

A Tower Built for Treasure

The Jewel Tower was constructed between 1365 and 1366 during the reign of King Edward III, at the height of his reign and when England was a dominant power in Europe. At this time, England was basking in the aftermath of the Battle of Poitiers, a decisive English victory in 1356 during the Hundred Years’ War against France. The battle was a momentous win for the English army and significantly boosted Edward III’s position as a monarch. His regime, known for its military successes, chivalric culture, and ambitions to consolidate royal power, left a tangible mark on the country’s infrastructure. The Jewel Tower was part of that legacy.

The tower was initially designed to house the monarch’s treasures, including precious jewels, gold, and silverware. Given its royal significance, it was carefully built to be fireproof, solid, and secure. The construction is remarkable for its era, with walls made of Kentish ragstone, a durable material that has survived the ravages of time, and a moat that once encircled it, providing further protection. The tower was also part of the wider Palace of Westminster complex, where kings held court and where the Houses of Parliament stand today.

Historical Context: The Zenith of Plantagenet Rule

The building of the Jewel Tower took place during one of England’s golden eras, just a decade after the triumph at Poitiers. Edward III’s reign marked the peak of Plantagenet rule, characterised by military prowess and the establishment of English identity through events such as the founding of the Order of the Garter and victories in the Hundred Years’ War. England’s nobility, adorned in extravagant garments, embraced courtly life and romanticised notions of knighthood. It was a time of great prestige for the English crown as the kingdom asserted its dominance over its neighbours and strengthened its place on the European stage.

Yet, this period wasn’t without its challenges. The Black Death had swept through Europe a few years earlier, devastating populations, including England’s. Nonetheless, England’s wealth was growing, fuelled by its victories in France, and Edward III was determined to preserve his treasures and maintain the grandeur of his reign. The construction of the Jewel Tower was one of several projects designed to bolster royal authority and secure valuable possessions. At this point, the Plantagenets were still in firm control, unaware of the eventual dynastic struggles and civil wars that would erupt in later centuries.

Jewel Tower’s Architectural Legacy

Though modest in size compared to other medieval fortifications, the Jewel Tower is architecturally significant. Its three floors are constructed with thick walls and trim and arched windows, providing a blend of security and elegance. The tower’s original purpose is reflected in its name—this was a place where treasures were stored, away from the bustling public life of the palace, in a secluded area accessible only to the monarch and trusted courtiers.

Inside, the tower offers a glimpse of how it may have been used during its heyday. Visitors can walk through its narrow, winding staircases and peer out of its tiny windows, imagining what it was like when it was packed with treasure chests and royal valuables. Original features, such as the medieval fireplaces and stone vaulting, add to the atmosphere of authenticity.

In the 20th century, the Jewel Tower underwent careful restoration to preserve its medieval character. Much of its original structure was repaired during this period, and the surrounding moat was excavated, further highlighting its historic role as a fortified treasure house. The restoration work has ensured that the tower remains one of the most intact examples of 14th-century architecture in Westminster.

A 21st-Century Museum and Tourist Spot

Today, Jewel Tower is managed by English Heritage and operates as a museum that tells the story of its long history and the changing landscape of Westminster. The exhibits focus on its original function as a storehouse for royal treasures. Still, they also explore its later use as a records office for the House of Lords and a location for testing official weights and measures in the 19th century. Visitors can explore the interactive displays and artefacts that span the building’s various uses over the centuries.

The tower offers a peaceful contrast to the more crowded tourist attractions in Westminster, providing an oasis of history and calm just a short distance from the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Its charm lies in its simplicity and ability to take visitors back in time. Few places in London allow one to experience the past as intimately as in the Jewel Tower, making it a must-see for anyone interested in the city’s medieval history.

Getting to the Jewel Tower: Location and Transport Links

The Jewel Tower is conveniently located in the heart of Westminster, just a short walk from some of London’s most iconic landmarks. It sits near the southern end of Westminster Abbey’s precincts, on the corner of Abingdon Street and Old Palace Yard, close to the River Thames. Its proximity to the Palace of Westminster makes it easy to visit alongside nearby attractions such as Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, and the Churchill War Rooms.

For public transport, the tower is well-served by several tube stations. Westminster station, on the Jubilee, District, and Circle lines, is just a five-minute walk away. St. James’s Park station, on the District and Circle lines, is also within walking distance, providing an alternative route to the tower. Multiple bus routes, including 11, 24, and 148, stop nearby, making it accessible from different parts of London.

If you’re coming from further afield, London Victoria Station is the closest major train hub, just a 15-minute walk or a short bus ride away. Visitors can also arrive via riverboat services on the Thames, with the Westminster Pier offering a scenic approach to the tower. Cycling is another option, as the area has dedicated bike lanes and docking stations for London’s bike-sharing scheme.

The Jewel Tower’s Place in London’s Heritage

The Jewel Tower may not dominate the London skyline like the Shard or St. Paul’s Cathedral, but its historical significance is undeniable. It is a quiet reminder of the medieval world that once existed in Westminster, offering a more personal connection to England’s past. For those who appreciate the stories behind the stones, the Jewel Tower provides a fascinating look at a bygone era when kings safeguarded their treasures, not only from enemies but from the unpredictability of life in a medieval city. Visiting this lesser-known gem lets you enter a hidden chapter of London’s vast and varied history.