The Neolithic Forest At Purfleet

London is a city layered with history, where streets, buildings, and even churches are wrapped in stories of the past. From the monumental Westminster Abbey to the smaller but equally significant churches like St Helen Bishopsgate and St Bride’s, many of these sacred sites carry claims that stretch back over a thousand years. Some of these claims, though, often fall under scrutiny from historians. Southwark Cathedral, for instance, has a long and illustrious history, but the church’s claim that it dates back to 606 AD raises more questions than it answers.

The Problem with London’s Ancient Church Claims

London’s churches are known for their architectural grandeur and rich histories, but they are also known for ambitious historical claims. Westminster Abbey is an iconic example. The current Gothic masterpiece, mostly built between the 13th and 16th centuries, is said to stand on the site of a much earlier church founded by Saint Dunstan in the 960s. Yet, legends insist there was an even older Roman temple dedicated to Apollo on that site. Historical records don’t support such a temple’s existence, but the claim lingers in popular imagination.

Another case is St Helen Bishopsgate, which boasts an impressive history as one of London’s few surviving medieval churches. While claims suggest its origins stretch back to the 10th century, there is little concrete evidence for this early date. The same is true for St Mary-le-Bow, an East End church with a stunning Baroque design that often clings to a history that supposedly stretches into Anglo-Saxon times. Even St Bride’s Church on Fleet Street claims a murky foundation story, with some legends linking it to Roman times, despite the current church being the ninth iteration, dating from Sir Christopher Wren’s post-Great Fire of London reconstruction.

Churches like these are not content with simply being hundreds of years old; they seem to need to push the envelope back even further, as though a church’s legacy requires it to predate the Norman Conquest to truly matter. This brings us to Southwark Cathedral, where a claim of being founded in 606 AD stands out as particularly dubious.

Southwark Cathedral and the 606 AD Claim

Nestled on the southern bank of the Thames, Southwark Cathedral is one of London’s most charming historic churches. It’s no stretch to say that this building has witnessed countless moments in the city’s story. The church has stood as a symbol of religious life in Southwark for many centuries, but did it truly exist in 606 AD?

The official narrative, presented by church authorities, claims that a Christian place of worship has been on the site since 606 AD. However, there is little historical documentation to back up such a precise and early date. This assertion seems based more on local folklore and loose references than solid evidence. The idea that Southwark could have had a Christian church at that time is not impossible, but it remains speculative without any archaeological proof to substantiate it.

Even the oldest parts of the current structure, largely built between the 12th and 14th centuries, provide no clues that point to a 7th-century origin. What is clear, though, is that Southwark was an important area during the Roman and Anglo-Saxon periods, given its strategic location near the river and major Roman roads. Still, no clear evidence has surfaced suggesting a formal church existed before the Norman Conquest.

The Historical Facts: Domesday Book and St Mary Overy

The first historical mention of a church in Southwark comes from the Domesday Book, the great survey commissioned by William the Conqueror in 1086. However, the details are vague. The Domesday entry refers to a church in Southwark but gives no name, location, or indication that it was the precursor to Southwark Cathedral.

More concrete history begins with the founding of St Mary Overy Priory in 1106. This Augustinian priory, established by William Giffard, the Bishop of Winchester, is a key moment in Southwark Cathedral’s history. The priory became a religious and social hub in medieval Southwark, attracting pilgrims and laypeople. By the 12th century, the priory church was likely a grand structure, far removed from the humble beginnings implied by the 606 AD claim.

Even so, some historical writers have hinted at an older church on the site. John Stowe, a 16th-century historian, wrote that a church existed “far before the Conquest in 1066.” But Stowe’s records are vague at best. His claim lacks specific references and appears more based on oral tradition and speculation than tangible evidence. In historical research, unsubstantiated claims, such as those made by Stowe, must be treated cautiously, as they can blur the line between history and legend.

The Search for Proof

Historians and archaeologists investigating Southwark Cathedral have not uncovered much that lends credibility to the 606 AD claim. While some remnants of earlier structures have been found in the area, there is no concrete proof of a 7th-century church. Much of the evidence points to the 12th century as the true foundation period for the current building’s predecessor.

Why, then, does the cathedral insist on this much older date? One answer lies in the tendency of many of London’s historic churches to present themselves as having deeper, almost mythical roots. It creates a sense of continuity and importance that stretches centuries, linking the present building with the earliest days of Christianity in Britain. This is common among churches and religious institutions, where historical grandeur is seen as part of their spiritual and cultural legacy.

The Need to Extend History: Is It Necessary?

The desire to extend the age of historical churches isn’t unique to Southwark Cathedral. Across Europe, churches often make claims that tie them to the earliest periods of Christian history. The question is, why do they feel the need to do so?

In a city like London, where history is everywhere, there seems to be a certain prestige that comes with being older. A church that can claim a foundation in the 7th century may seem more impressive or spiritually significant than one founded a few centuries later. The reverence for ancient history leads to “historical inflation,” where churches feel compelled to push their origins back further than the evidence supports.

But this raises an interesting question: Isn’t the real history enough? Southwark Cathedral, like many of its peers, has a rich and well-documented history stretching back nearly a millennium. The priory of St Mary Overy, the turbulent centuries of religious and political change, the figures who have passed through its doors—all of these elements form a fascinating story. Yet, the desire to be the “oldest” somehow remains irresistible, even when the facts don’t fully align.

Perhaps it is human nature to seek out beginnings. We are often drawn to continuity, the notion that a place has stood witness to countless generations. But in the case of Southwark Cathedral and other historic churches, the real histories – with all their complexities, reconstructions, and evolutions – are just as compelling as the myths that seek to extend them further.

Looking Beyond the Claims

The history of Southwark Cathedral is a testament to the layers of time and belief that shape London’s sacred spaces. While the claim of a 606 AD origin is dubious, it doesn’t take away from the importance of this church as a site of spiritual and cultural life. The real history, from the founding of the Priory of St Mary Overy to its role in the Reformation and beyond, is more than enough to secure Southwark Cathedral’s place as one of London’s great landmarks. Ultimately, the truth is as enduring as the myths – and often just as fascinating.

Encountering a blue whale in open waters is among the most awesome things a person can experience. Seeing these gentle giants glide through the depths puts things in perspective unlike anything else in the world. But seeing a blue whale in London – now that’s something you wouldn’t expect to hear. And yet you can – well, sort of… Let us explain.

A Monument of the Unseen Giants

If you happen to have some business in the neighbourhood of Barnet, head towards Wood Street. Go past the modest houses and shops, only to encounter the towering arch formed by two enormous whale jawbones. These bones, which once belonged to the largest animal on Earth, now stand in an unexpected spot far from their oceanic origins. The Whalebones landmark has become a familiar sight for locals and an intriguing curiosity for visitors passing through. Standing beneath these bones is a strange, humbling experience. The sheer size of the structure offers a physical reminder of how enormous blue whales are. It’s as if a piece of the ocean had been plucked from the waves and settled in the middle of Barnet.

The jawbones, which reach upwards like a gateway to a world of bygone maritime adventures, have been part of the local landscape for decades. Though they’ve become part of Barnet’s identity, the story of how these whale bones ended here is a tale full of unlikely events and surprising twists.

The Circus Comes to Town: Installing the Whalebones in 1939

The jawbones arrived in Barnet in a lorry via Hull in 1939. The event felt like a grand spectacle, almost like a travelling circus rolling into town. As construction crews prepared to install these enormous bones, a quiet residential area was suddenly abuzz with activity. The bones were sourced from a blue whale and delivered from Norway. However, turning these massive pieces of natural history into a sturdy archway wasn’t simple.

For starters, the bones were not just large but unwieldy. Moving them into position took careful planning, involving the frantic efforts of half a dozen workers. The locals gathered to watch the show as the construction crew manoeuvred these whale bones into place. It was a strange sight – not something you’d expect to see in a quiet London suburb. Children stood wide-eyed as these gigantic bones slowly rose into the air.

The crew had to ensure the bones were stable, balancing their weight and securing them to a strong foundation. The bones were arranged in an arch, reminiscent of the prows of Viking ships or the entrance to a mythical kingdom. To many, it felt like something out of a storybook, a doorway to another world. Once installed, the structure quickly became a landmark. Even today, the sense of wonder remains.

From the Ocean to Barnet: The Origins of the Whalebones

So how did these whale bones end up in Barnet in the first place? The answer lies in the history of a house that stood on Wood Street, a property known as Whalebones. The house was built in 1815, and the name Whalebones first appeared on a map in 1872, and the house had always been something of a local curiosity. While the exact reason for the estate’s peculiar name is shrouded in mystery, many believe it was linked to the house’s most prominent resident – no other than the famous polar explorer, Sir John Franklin. Over time, the property’s name became synonymous with the giant jawbones at the entrance, giving the house an air of exoticism and adventure.

The bones themselves came from Norway. In the 19th century, whale hunting was a massive industry in Norway, where the rich waters of the North Atlantic provided ample opportunity for capturing these giant creatures. The Norwegian company that delivered the bones to Barnet was part of this booming industry. In a world where whaling was still common, exporting such bones was not unusual. However, the idea of using these bones as an architectural feature in a quiet London suburb was unusual. Yet that’s exactly what happened.

The house, Whalebones, remained a prominent feature in Barnet until its eventual demolition in the mid-20th century. But the bones remained a curious relic of the estate and the oceanic giants that once ruled the seas.

A Fight for Whalebones: The Housing Development Controversy

While the bones have stood for decades, their future has not always been secure. In 2019, a major development proposal threatened to change the landscape of Whalebones forever. A housing complex of 152 new homes was proposed for the site, and this plan immediately met with strong opposition from the local community.

Like much of London, Barnet has faced increasing pressure to meet housing demands. Developers often look for large open spaces where they can build new homes. The Whalebones estate, with its expansive grounds, seemed an attractive option for such a project. However, for many in Barnet, Whalebones was more than just a convenient plot of land. It symbolised the area’s unique heritage, a landmark that had stood for generations.

Local residents, conservation groups, and heritage organisations rallied to oppose the development. For them, the Whalebones were not just relics of the past but a crucial part of Barnet’s identity. They argued that the bones and the green space around them must be preserved for future generations. The proposal to replace the bones with a housing complex felt like erasing a piece of history.

The campaign to save Whalebones was fierce and passionate. Letters were written, petitions were signed, and public meetings were held. The message was clear: Whalebones belonged to Barnet and should remain untouched. The debate lasted for months, with both sides presenting their arguments. For the developers, the housing shortage was a pressing concern. For the locals, however, the loss of Whalebones would have been a cultural tragedy.

In 2020, the proposal was officially rejected. The community’s efforts had paid off, and the Whalebones were saved. The jawbones remain standing, a testament to both Barnet’s maritime connections and the power of local action.

Whalebones Today: A Piece of Barnet’s Soul

Today, Whalebones is more than just a quirky landmark. It’s a reminder of Barnet’s long history, a piece of the past that connects the area to the wider world. It also symbolises how communities can come together to protect the places that matter to them.

While the original Whalebones house is long gone, and the area around it has changed, the archway of blue whale jawbones remains a striking and unusual feature. It echoes a time when maritime adventures and exotic discoveries captured the public’s imagination. In an era when London was a hub of global exploration, the idea of bringing something as monumental as whale bones back to the city wasn’t just plausible—it was thrilling.

The Whalebones link the natural world and the urban environment, a meeting point between land and sea. They remind us of the sheer scale of the creatures that inhabit our oceans and the way humans have interacted with them over the centuries. Meeting a blue whale in Barnet might seem impossible, but standing under the Whalebones arch, you’re closer to the giants of the deep than you might think.

Somerset House is one of London’s most prominent neoclassical buildings, standing grandly on the banks of the River Thames. Its elegant Georgian façade conceals centuries of history. Built on land once occupied by palaces and ancient streets, it has seen a parade of royal, political, and artistic figures walk its grounds. But beyond its striking appearance, the real mystery lies below the surface.

In 2011, archaeologists, led by King’s College London, launched an excavation at Somerset House. With a historical backdrop so rich, expectations were high. But what the archaeologists unearthed surprised even the most seasoned experts, revealing a window into the city’s deep past, from Saxon settlements to Tudor transformations.

The 2011 Excavation: A Peek Below the Surface

In 2011, King’s College London, whose buildings adjoin Somerset House, undertook an excavation beneath the house’s east wing. The goal was initially straightforward: to better understand the site’s mediaeval origins and how they had evolved over time. The project was also driven by a practical need—the college planned to expand and needed to assess the subterranean conditions before breaking ground for new foundations.

Somerset House, already a listed building and a site of tremendous historical significance, had rarely been studied in terms of what lay beneath it. The archaeologists, therefore, embarked on the dig with hopes of uncovering something from the site’s more recent history, particularly from the Tudor or Stuart eras. Their expectations were grounded in the known fact that the land was once the site of significant Tudor-era developments. Yet, as the digging began, layers of history from much earlier periods began to reveal themselves.

Somerset House: The Birth of Grandeur

Work on Somerset House began in 1547 when Edward Seymour, the Duke of Somerset and the Lord Protector for the young King Edward VI, decided to build a palace that would rival even Hampton Court. With a vision that mixed grandiosity and personal ambition, the Duke seized prime land just off the Thames, demolishing an entire block of mediaeval buildings, including a church, to make way for his vision. This act epitomised Seymour’s rapacious nature and left a bitter legacy. His desire for self-promotion would soon lead to his fall from grace, and the palace he started remained incomplete when he was arrested and executed in 1552.

After Seymour’s death, the property was returned to the Crown, eventually becoming a home for royal consorts. Elizabeth I occasionally stayed there, and her successor, James I, granted it to his wife, Anne of Denmark. Under her care, Somerset House saw an influx of Italian craftsmen and artists who embellished the already grand structure. The house remained a royal residence through the centuries, hosting a series of influential figures until it eventually evolved into the public building we know today.

But the site’s history did not begin with the Duke of Somerset’s grand ambitions. Long before the palace’s foundations were laid, the area was teeming with life, stretching back to the Saxon era. It was this hidden history that the archaeologists were eager to unearth.

The Saxon and Mediaeval Periods: Hidden Layers of Early London

As the archaeologists dug through the layers of history beneath Somerset House, they soon discovered that the area had been in use far earlier than previously thought. To their astonishment, they found traces of Saxon settlement from around the 9th century AD, marking the earliest known activity on the site. The Thames was a lifeline for these early settlers, providing both a transportation route and a source of sustenance. The excavations revealed postholes from timber structures, likely simple wooden houses that would have hugged the riverbank. Some signs of domestic life, such as animal bones and pottery fragments, were also found, giving a glimpse into the everyday lives of these early Londoners.

The significance of these Saxon finds cannot be overstated. In the 9th century, London was a small but growing settlement repeatedly harassed by Viking raids. The Saxons who lived on the site of Somerset House were part of a broader community beginning to recover from these onslaughts, slowly rebuilding a city that would soon grow into the metropolis we know today.

The excavations also revealed artefacts from the mediaeval period. By the 12th century, London was flourishing as a major European city, and the area where Somerset House now stands was likely filled with narrow streets and bustling activity. Foundations of stone buildings from this era were found, suggesting the presence of larger, more permanent structures, possibly merchant houses or small religious buildings. It is likely that this part of London, so close to the river, was involved in trade or crafts during the mediaeval period.

The most exciting discovery from this era was the remnants of a previously unknown mediaeval chapel. Though only partial foundations remained, it is believed that this small church would have been an important site for the local community, predating the church Seymour demolished to build his palace. The excavation unearthed fragments of decorated stonework and some religious artefacts, giving further credence to this theory. The exact history of this chapel remains a mystery, but it was clear that the area was not just a residential or commercial zone but also a spiritual centre.

The Tudor Era: Grand Visions and Dramatic Changes

The site’s transformation during the Tudor period was dramatic. When Edward Seymour seized the land for his palace, he wiped away much of the area’s existing mediaeval buildings. The excavation uncovered a wealth of material from this period, including foundations of large brick buildings that likely formed part of Somerset’s palace complex. This included the remnants of kitchens, storerooms, and even some sections of decorative garden walls.

Perhaps most striking was discovering a section of the palace’s original courtyard. The courtyard would have been at the heart of the palace’s activities, where nobles and courtiers gathered, and Somerset would have paraded his power. The excavated section revealed beautifully patterned stone pavements, suggesting that no expense was spared in constructing this luxurious palace. Yet, tragically for the Duke, much of this grandeur was never completed. He was executed before he could finish his dream, leaving future monarchs to shape the estate in their image.

Interestingly, the excavations also uncovered evidence of later Tudor use of the site. After Seymour’s death, Queen Elizabeth I had limited use for Somerset House. However, James I granted the property to his wife, Anne of Denmark, who undertook substantial renovations. The excavations found traces of these improvements, including fragments of Italian marble and decorated tiles, reflecting the queen’s desire to bring Renaissance splendour to her English residence. This Renaissance influence would have starkly contrasted with the more traditional Tudor architecture of the original palace.

The Transition into the Early Modern Period

As London transitioned into the early modern period, Somerset House’s role shifted. In the 17th century, royal consorts frequently used it, but its importance in the royal household declined. The archaeological findings from this period revealed a different type of use, with evidence of more mundane domestic activities. The large kitchens and storerooms of the Tudor palace were replaced by smaller, less grandiose structures, suggesting a more functional use of the space.

By the 18th century, when Somerset House was rebuilt in the neoclassical style we see today, much of the site’s earlier grandeur had been swept away. The excavations found evidence of these dramatic changes, with the foundations of older buildings cut through by the new construction. The team even found evidence of hurried demolition, as the site was cleared to make way for the new structure.

Unearthing London’s Hidden Past

The 2011 excavations at Somerset House revealed far more than anyone had expected. From the simple wooden homes of Saxon settlers to the grand courtyards of Tudor nobles, the site’s layers reflected the shifting fortunes of London.

Somerset House stands as a monument to London’s ability to reinvent itself. The excavation proved that beneath its grandeur lies a far more complex history that tells the story of the city’s people as much as its rulers. In this small patch of London, archaeologists uncovered evidence of a city constantly evolving, growing, and reshaping itself – a fitting metaphor for London itself.

We all know the most imposing structures that remind us of London’s medieval grandeur—Westminster Abbey, the Tower of London, Jewel Tower, Winchester Palace. But there are so many other great buildings we have lost—churches, forts, and townhouses—that have equally fascinating histories to the ones that survived.

Among the lost treasures of this city’s architectural heritage are two buildings that have vanished from the skyline but still linger in legend and lore: Baynard’s Castle. These two structures, built centuries apart, once stood as imposing strongholds, power bases, and settings for some of the most pivotal events in English history. From the Normans to the Tudors, Baynard’s Castle has witnessed it all.

Let’s take a tantalising glimpse at these two Baynard’s Castles and uncover the layers of history, legend, and power they embody.

Baynard’s Castle: The Norman Stronghold

Medieval chronicles suggest the existence of a stronghold at the junction of the rivers Thames and Fleet as early as the reign of Canute the Great. If that is the case, the first Baynard’s Castle might have been rebuilt or reinforced an already existing structure soon after William the Conqueror’s invasion of England in 1066. It was strategically located where the River Fleet flowed into the mighty Thames, just southwest of modern-day St Paul’s Cathedral. This area was a key spot, not just for defence but also for controlling London’s vital river traffic. The Fleet was more of a substantial waterway back then, and Baynard’s Castle guarded this crucial junction.

Ralph Baynard, one of William the Conqueror’s trusted Norman barons and the first Sheriff of Essex, constructed the fortification. A stalwart supporter of the new king, Ralph Baynard was granted substantial land holdings in Essex and London, including the land on which Baynard’s Castle would rise. This Ralph Baynard may well have been the same “Bainardius” mentioned in the Domesday Book, though his exact lineage remains a tantalising mystery.

The Norman castle stood as a traditional motte-and-bailey structure, a wooden keep on an earthen mound. Given its location on the banks of the Thames, it was also well-positioned for riverine defence, securing London’s western flank. Baynard’s Castle would have commanded an impressive view of the river, and its fortifications added to the growing dominance of Norman architecture in a newly conquered England.

But Baynard’s Castle was not merely a fort. Over time, it grew in importance and was associated with some of the most influential families in medieval England, eventually being owned by one of the key figures in the legendary tales of Robin Hood.

Marian Fitzwalter: From Castle Walls to Folklore

By the early 13th century, Baynard’s Castle had passed into the hands of Robert Fitzwalter, a powerful baron and one of the leaders of the Baron’s Revolt against King John. Fitzwalter was a fascinating character, both a rebel and a nobleman, whose life intersected with some of the most famous figures in English legend.

According to folklore, Fitzwalter’s daughter, Marian Fitzwalter, was none other than Maid Marian, the beloved of Robin Hood. Marian the Fair, as she was called, is said to have grown up in the castle, where her beauty and noble spirit captured the hearts of many—including, according to legend, the outlaw Robin Hood. Whether or not this is true, the association between Marian Fitzwalter and Maid Marian has become deeply rooted in England’s folklore. However, it is a historical fact that she caught the eye of no other but King John himself, and his scandalous advances might have provoked the ensuing crisis.

As for her father, Robert Fitzwalter’s rebellion against King John culminated in the Magna Carta’s signing. His leadership in the revolt, however, came at a cost. In retaliation for his disobedience, King John ordered the destruction of Baynard’s Castle. On January 14, 1213, the once-formidable fortress was razed to the ground. The site would remain a ruin for over a century, a silent witness to London’s turbulent past.

The New Baynard’s Castle: A Yorkist Stronghold

In the early 15th century, a new building emerged near the ruins of the original castle, known in the records as a “Hospice called le Old Inne by Pauls Wharfe”. This new Baynard’s Castle, located slightly southeast of its predecessor, near Queenhithe, was less of a defensive fortress and more of a grand, fortified house. It was no longer a Norman outpost but an aristocratic residence.

Baynard’s Castle became particularly significant during the Wars of the Roses, a series of civil wars that gripped England in the 15th century. The Yorkist branch of the Plantagenets used the castle as their London headquarters. During this time, it became a focal point of political intrigue and military strategy. Edward IV, one of the Yorkist claimants to the throne, was known to have gathered his forces there before seizing power. It was at Baynard’s Castle that Edward was proclaimed king, marking one of the most dramatic shifts in English history.

The castle’s new role as a political nerve centre made it more than just an impressive residence. It symbolised the Plantagenet claim to the throne and was a stronghold of legitimacy during the turbulent times of civil war.

Tudor Grandeur and Political Drama

Baynard’s Castle played a vital role in English politics as the Wars of the Roses gave way to the Tudor dynasty. After the victory of Henry VII, the first Tudor king, the royal family repaired and used the house. It was eventually inherited by Henry VIII, who in turn bestowed it upon his first wife, Catherine of Aragon, as part of her dowry. The grandeur and prestige of Baynard’s Castle were undeniable, as it became a key royal residence in the early years of Henry’s reign.

After Catherine’s fall from favour, Baynard’s Castle passed to the Earl of Pembroke, brother-in-law to Henry’s final wife, Catherine Parr. The castle would become a backdrop for some of the most critical events in Tudor politics.

One of the most notable moments in the castle’s history occurred in 1553, during the political crisis that followed the death of Edward VI. Edward, the young Protestant king, had named Lady Jane Grey as his successor, bypassing his Catholic sister Mary. However, this decision proved deeply unpopular. It was at Baynard’s Castle that the Privy Council convened to end Jane’s brief reign and proclaim Mary Tudor as the rightful queen of England. This dramatic shift of power from Protestant to Catholic monarch changed the course of the country’s history, all within the castle’s historic walls.

The Great Fire of 1666: Baynard’s Castle Lost

For all its grandeur, Baynard’s Castle could not escape the devastating events of the Great Fire of London in 1666. Like so many of the city’s landmarks, it was consumed by the flames that swept through London, leaving only smouldering ruins in its wake. The fire, which started in a bakery on Pudding Lane, destroyed much of the city, including St Paul’s Cathedral, and swept west along the Thames. Being so close to the river, Baynard’s Castle was among the many casualties.

London was rebuilt in the aftermath of the fire, but Baynard’s Castle was not. Unlike St Paul’s, which rose again from the ashes, Baynard’s Castle faded into memory, its stones buried beneath the city’s redevelopment.

A Glimpse of What Remains

Today, the legacy of Baynard’s Castle endures in the names of the streets and areas around the site where it once stood. Baynard House, an office block constructed in the 1970s, sits on the approximate location of the original Norman fort, while the surrounding Baynard Street and Castle Baynard Ward further remind the castle’s historical significance.

Though little remains of the actual structure, the stories of the two Baynard’s Castles live on, woven into the fabric of London’s history. From Ralph Baynard’s Norman fortress to the political drama of the Tudors, Baynard’s Castle remains a symbol of the city’s ever-changing landscape—an enduring reminder of London’s past, where legends and history intertwine.

If you love history and outdoor adventures and are looking for a place to escape London’s urban chaos, Loughton Camp is an excellent choice for a weekend family trip. Multiple bus routes can take you there from various spots in London, and the walk up the hill is worth it. But why Loughton Camp? We will tease you with two names – Julius Caesar and Boudica. If you want to know more, read on!

Loughton Camp: Location and Topology

Loughton Camp is situated within the ancient woodland of Epping Forest in Essex, just to the northeast of London. This part of the forest is characterised by a striking mixture of tall, old trees and dense undergrowth, offering an almost mystical atmosphere to the visitor. The hill fort is perched on a high plateau, roughly 90 metres above sea level, giving it a commanding view of the surrounding landscape. This elevation, one of the highest points in the forest, makes it an ideal natural fortification.

The camp is relatively large, encompassing approximately 4 hectares (about 10 acres), and is ringed by a series of shallow banks and ditches that would have been much deeper and steeper in its prime. These defences form an oval shape, with the interior likely having been used for settlement, livestock, and storage. Walking along the site today, one can still discern these earthworks despite the natural erosion and overgrowth that have softened their edges over the centuries. The proximity of Loughton Brook, a small stream, would have provided an essential water source for the inhabitants.

Earliest History – The Trinovantes’ Settlement

Loughton Camp dates back to around 500 BC, during the late Bronze Age or early Iron Age. Archaeological finds, including pottery shards and iron tools, suggest that it was inhabited by the Trinovantes, one of the most powerful tribes in southeastern Britain at the time. The Trinovantes controlled much of modern-day Essex and parts of Suffolk and were known for their metalworking, farming, and trade skills.

The exact purpose of Loughton Camp remains a topic of debate among historians and archaeologists. Given the size of the fort and its robust earthwork defences, it is likely that it served as a communal living area for several hundred people. The site would have been a centre for the surrounding agricultural community, providing a secure place to retreat in times of conflict. Given its proximity to the navigable River Lea and its strategic position overlooking key routes through the forest, it may also have functioned as a trading hub.

Unlike some other hill forts of the period, which show signs of continuous occupation, Loughton Camp has been intermittently used. This could suggest that it was primarily a seasonal or emergency site, only inhabited when the local population felt threatened by rival tribes or external invaders.

A Natural Stronghold – The Strategic Position

The placement of Loughton Camp atop one of the highest points in Epping Forest was no accident. From its vantage point, the camp would have provided an exceptional lookout over the surrounding countryside, making it an ideal location for surveillance and defence. The forest itself would have acted as a natural barrier, making it difficult for large forces to navigate quickly, which added to the site’s defensibility.

In Iron Age Britain, hill forts were often built in such commanding locations for military reasons and as a symbol of tribal power. Loughton Camp’s elevated position would have allowed its inhabitants to monitor movement along ancient trackways that passed through the forest and the nearby valleys. Any approaching danger would be spotted well in advance, giving the residents time to prepare or retreat if necessary.

The earthwork fortifications would have further strengthened this natural defensive position. The steep slopes surrounding the camp would have made it difficult for attackers to storm the site, while the banks and ditches would have slowed down any assault. Loughton Camp was undoubtedly a formidable stronghold in its day, with its back protected by the dense forest and its front offering a clear view of any advancing enemy.

The Controversy – Caesar’s Third Camp or Boudica’s Last Stand?

Loughton Camp’s history is not without controversy. One theory, proposed by enthusiast historian Roger Nolan, suggests that Loughton Camp might have played a role in Julius Caesar’s second invasion of Britain in 54 BC. According to Nolan, Loughton Camp could have been Caesar’s third camp, used during his campaign as he pushed inland from the Kent coast. The idea is intriguing, though it remains speculative due to the lack of direct archaeological evidence linking the site to Roman occupation.

Caesar’s invasion, which was largely aimed at securing tribute from the British tribes and preventing them from aiding his Gallic enemies, involved several skirmishes and temporary camps as his forces marched through the southeast. The theory posits that Loughton Camp’s strategic location and proximity to the River Lea could have made it a suitable site for a temporary Roman encampment during the campaign. Yet, this remains a fascinating but unproven suggestion without concrete artefacts like Roman pottery, coins, or weapons.

Local legends also link the campsite to Boudica’s war against the Romans in 60-61 AD. The rebellion, led by the warrior queen of the Iceni tribe, was a major uprising against Roman rule. Boudica’s forces attacked Roman settlements across eastern England, including Londinium (modern-day London), before being defeated by Roman legions. With its advantageous position, some believe that Loughton Camp could have been used as a campsite or rallying point for Boudica’s forces as they moved through the region.

Again, this theory is pure speculation. No archaeological finds from the Roman period have been uncovered at the site, and Boudica’s movements during the rebellion are still largely unknown. While it’s tempting to imagine Loughton Camp playing a role in these dramatic events, these ideas remain unconvincing for now.

Loughton Camp Today – A Quiet Remnant of the Past

Today, Loughton Camp is a peaceful, often overlooked part of Epping Forest, far removed from its past’s potential conflict and intrigue. Visitors can walk among the ancient earthworks, marvelling at how nature has slowly reclaimed this once-defended position. The site is a popular spot for walkers and history enthusiasts, offering a glimpse into the region’s ancient past while providing a quiet retreat from the modern world.

Epping Forest is a place of great natural beauty, home to diverse flora and fauna. The surrounding woodland remains much as it would have appeared to the ancient inhabitants of Loughton Camp, with towering oaks and hornbeams providing a canopy that has stood for centuries.

Though much about the site remains a mystery, Loughton Camp’s history as an Iron Age hill fort is undeniable. Whether it played a role in Caesar’s invasion or Boudica’s rebellion may never be known for certain. Still, its position and construction speak of a place valued for its natural strength and strategic significance.

In visiting Loughton Camp, one steps back into a world where the hills and forests were picturesque landscapes and vital fortifications, where ancient tribes stood in the shadow of the encroaching Roman Empire. The mysteries of Loughton Camp continue to inspire curiosity and wonder, a reminder that even the quietest corners of our history have stories to tell.

London’s skyline might look like the cover of a sci-fi novel, but it will not take you long to find the traces of its two-millennia-long urban history. The bustling capital of Roman Britannia lost much of its lustre in the Dark Ages, but it still attracted the attention of the Vikings and the Normans after them. You can still find them all on the city streets – Romans, Saxons, Vikings and the English of the early Plantagenet era. You just have to know where to look.

1. The Roman Amphitheatre: Echoes of Gladiators

Buried beneath the bustling Guildhall in the heart of the City of London lies the Roman Amphitheatre, a site that has been forgotten for centuries. Discovered only in 1988 during redevelopment work, this ancient arena once held up to 7,000 spectators who gathered to watch gladiators fight for glory.

The remains of the amphitheatre’s stone walls and timber seating outline what was once the stage for bloody contests and Roman sports. As you wander through the exposed foundations, you can almost hear the roars of the crowd and feel the tension in the air as gladiators prepared for battle. Today, the amphitheatre has been cleverly incorporated into the Guildhall Art Gallery, allowing visitors to experience this hidden slice of Roman Britain while admiring fine art.

2. The Wall of Londinium: Roman Fortifications

The Wall of Londinium is one of the city’s most enduring remnants of its Roman past. Erected around 200 AD, the wall stretched for over three miles, encircling the Roman town of Londinium and offering protection from Saxon raiders. Much of it has since crumbled or been built over, but fragments can still be seen in several locations around the city.

One of the best-preserved sections can be found near Tower Hill, where you’ll spot the imposing stonework peeking through the modern cityscape. Walking along the ruins gives you a sense of the fortifications’ original grandeur, and it’s easy to imagine Roman soldiers pacing along its length, standing guard over a bustling Londinium.

3. Billingsgate Roman House & Baths: Life in Ancient London

Tucked away beneath the bustling streets of modern-day London lies the Billingsgate Roman House & Baths. This archaeological treasure offers a fascinating glimpse into domestic life in Roman Britain. Discovered in the 19th century during building work, this well-preserved site includes the foundations of a Roman house and its accompanying bathhouse.

The bathhouse was a central part of Roman social life, and the Billingsgate site provides a detailed look at how Roman Londoners enjoyed their leisure time. Visitors can walk around the remnants of heated floors, plunge pools, and steam rooms, all beautifully preserved. While relatively small, the site offers a window into the everyday luxuries enjoyed by wealthy Romans nearly two thousand years ago.

4. Spitalfields Charnel House: A Forgotten Burial Ground

Located in the heart of the East End, Spitalfields Charnel House is one of London’s more eerie ruins. This 14th-century burial vault was part of the mediaeval priory of St Mary Spital and served as a resting place for hundreds of human remains. In case you’re wondering, a charnel house was used to store bones when a cemetery became overcrowded.

Long forgotten, the Spitalfields Charnel House was rediscovered in the late 1990s during a development project. Today, visitors can explore this haunting site, where the stone walls still exude a faint chill. Though its origins were purely practical, it’s hard not to feel the weight of history when standing among the remains of London’s mediaeval past.

5. The London Mithraeum: A Secret Roman Temple

Deep beneath the towering skyscrapers of the City of London lies the London Mithraeum, a hidden gem that once served as a temple to the god Mithras. Originally built in the 3rd century AD, this subterranean temple was used for secret rituals by followers of the Mithraic cult, a mysterious religion popular among Roman soldiers.

The Mithraeum was discovered in 1954 during excavation work and has since been meticulously reconstructed. Visitors can now descend into the depths of the Bloomberg building to experience a hauntingly atmospheric recreation of the ancient temple, complete with projections and soundscapes that bring the rituals of the past to life. It’s a fascinating reminder of the strange and diverse religious practices that once flourished in Roman London.

6. WELL Tower: London’s Hidden Norman Fortress

Tucked away in an unassuming corner of central London stands the WELL Tower, a hidden fragment of Norman architecture that’s easy to overlook but impossible to forget once you’ve spotted it. Built shortly after the Norman Conquest in the late 11th century, the WELL Tower is all that remains of a much larger complex that once formed part of London’s defensive walls.

Although its surrounding structures have long since disappeared, the WELL Tower offers a rare glimpse into London’s Norman past. Its weathered stone walls and narrow windows speak of a time when the Normans ruled with an iron grip, fortifying their control over the newly conquered city. The tower is a must-see for anyone interested in the Norman influence on London’s development.

7. Winchester Palace: Mediaeval Grandeur

Once one of the grandest buildings in London, Winchester Palace was the London residence of the powerful Bishops of Winchester during the Middle Ages. Built in the 12th century, it was a lavish complex with a great hall, cloisters, and even a riverside garden. Today, all that remains of this once-magnificent structure is the western wall of the great hall, which stands as a lonely monument to the past.

The most striking feature of the ruins is the large rose window, which still bears the intricate stone tracery of its original design. Standing before this weathered relic, you can easily imagine the grandeur of Winchester Palace in its heyday. The ruins are a poignant reminder of London’s mediaeval history, now quietly nestled among the city’s bustling streets.

8. St. Alphage Church: A Forgotten London Parish

Hidden in plain sight, the ruins of St. Alphage Church are easy to miss as you wander through the Barbican area. Once a thriving parish church, St. Alphage’s origins date back to the 11th century, although the current ruins date from the 14th century. The church was largely destroyed during the dissolution of the monasteries in the 16th century, and only fragments of the walls and a few archways remain today.

Despite its ruined state, St. Alphage is a peaceful spot to pause and reflect on London’s religious history. The remains of the church are surrounded by modern office buildings, making it a curious juxtaposition of old and new, where the past quietly endures amid the city’s constant transformation.

9. Jewel Tower: A Survivor of Westminster’s Past

Standing just across the road from the Houses of Parliament, the Jewel Tower is one of the few surviving remnants of the mediaeval Palace of Westminster. Built in the 1360s, the tower was initially constructed to house the royal treasures of Edward III and served as a secure storehouse for the king’s valuables.

Over the centuries, the Jewel Tower has had many uses, from a storage facility for parliamentary records to a testing site for official weights and measures. Today, it’s open to visitors, offering a rare chance to explore a mediaeval structure that has witnessed the rise and fall of dynasties, the execution of kings, and the birth of modern British politics.

10. Sutton Hoo: Saxon Secrets in the British Museum

Though not a ruin in the traditional sense, Sutton Hoo represents one of the most extraordinary archaeological finds in British history. Located at the British Museum, this exhibit features treasures from Suffolk’s famous Anglo-Saxon burial site. Discovered in 1939, Sutton Hoo is best known for its ship burial, which included a wealth of artefacts thought to belong to a 7th-century Anglo-Saxon king.

The collection’s highlight is the iconic Sutton Hoo helmet, an intricately decorated piece that has become one of the most recognisable symbols of Anglo-Saxon England. While the ruins of the actual burial site are in Suffolk, the British Museum’s display offers a fascinating insight into the world of the early Anglo-Saxons and their elaborate funerary customs.

London wears its history on its sleeve, yet many of its most fascinating stories lie hidden beneath the surface. From Roman amphitheatres and temples to Norman fortresses and mediaeval palaces, these ruins offer a captivating glimpse into the past, revealing the layers of history that make London such a rich and complex city to explore. Whether you’re a history buff or simply curious about the city’s hidden corners, these ancient sites are well worth a visit.