What Did the Excavations in Somerset House Unearth?

Somerset House is one of London’s most prominent neoclassical buildings, standing grandly on the banks of the River Thames. Its elegant Georgian façade conceals centuries of history. Built on land once occupied by palaces and ancient streets, it has seen a parade of royal, political, and artistic figures walk its grounds. But beyond its striking appearance, the real mystery lies below the surface.

In 2011, archaeologists, led by King’s College London, launched an excavation at Somerset House. With a historical backdrop so rich, expectations were high. But what the archaeologists unearthed surprised even the most seasoned experts, revealing a window into the city’s deep past, from Saxon settlements to Tudor transformations.

The 2011 Excavation: A Peek Below the Surface

In 2011, King’s College London, whose buildings adjoin Somerset House, undertook an excavation beneath the house’s east wing. The goal was initially straightforward: to better understand the site’s mediaeval origins and how they had evolved over time. The project was also driven by a practical need—the college planned to expand and needed to assess the subterranean conditions before breaking ground for new foundations.

Somerset House, already a listed building and a site of tremendous historical significance, had rarely been studied in terms of what lay beneath it. The archaeologists, therefore, embarked on the dig with hopes of uncovering something from the site’s more recent history, particularly from the Tudor or Stuart eras. Their expectations were grounded in the known fact that the land was once the site of significant Tudor-era developments. Yet, as the digging began, layers of history from much earlier periods began to reveal themselves.

The courtyard of Somerset House, Strand, London
By Anthony O’Neil, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=14364574

Somerset House: The Birth of Grandeur

Work on Somerset House began in 1547 when Edward Seymour, the Duke of Somerset and the Lord Protector for the young King Edward VI, decided to build a palace that would rival even Hampton Court. With a vision that mixed grandiosity and personal ambition, the Duke seized prime land just off the Thames, demolishing an entire block of mediaeval buildings, including a church, to make way for his vision. This act epitomised Seymour’s rapacious nature and left a bitter legacy. His desire for self-promotion would soon lead to his fall from grace, and the palace he started remained incomplete when he was arrested and executed in 1552.

After Seymour’s death, the property was returned to the Crown, eventually becoming a home for royal consorts. Elizabeth I occasionally stayed there, and her successor, James I, granted it to his wife, Anne of Denmark. Under her care, Somerset House saw an influx of Italian craftsmen and artists who embellished the already grand structure. The house remained a royal residence through the centuries, hosting a series of influential figures until it eventually evolved into the public building we know today.

But the site’s history did not begin with the Duke of Somerset’s grand ambitions. Long before the palace’s foundations were laid, the area was teeming with life, stretching back to the Saxon era. It was this hidden history that the archaeologists were eager to unearth.

The Saxon and Mediaeval Periods: Hidden Layers of Early London

As the archaeologists dug through the layers of history beneath Somerset House, they soon discovered that the area had been in use far earlier than previously thought. To their astonishment, they found traces of Saxon settlement from around the 9th century AD, marking the earliest known activity on the site. The Thames was a lifeline for these early settlers, providing both a transportation route and a source of sustenance. The excavations revealed postholes from timber structures, likely simple wooden houses that would have hugged the riverbank. Some signs of domestic life, such as animal bones and pottery fragments, were also found, giving a glimpse into the everyday lives of these early Londoners.

The significance of these Saxon finds cannot be overstated. In the 9th century, London was a small but growing settlement repeatedly harassed by Viking raids. The Saxons who lived on the site of Somerset House were part of a broader community beginning to recover from these onslaughts, slowly rebuilding a city that would soon grow into the metropolis we know today.

The excavations also revealed artefacts from the mediaeval period. By the 12th century, London was flourishing as a major European city, and the area where Somerset House now stands was likely filled with narrow streets and bustling activity. Foundations of stone buildings from this era were found, suggesting the presence of larger, more permanent structures, possibly merchant houses or small religious buildings. It is likely that this part of London, so close to the river, was involved in trade or crafts during the mediaeval period.

The most exciting discovery from this era was the remnants of a previously unknown mediaeval chapel. Though only partial foundations remained, it is believed that this small church would have been an important site for the local community, predating the church Seymour demolished to build his palace. The excavation unearthed fragments of decorated stonework and some religious artefacts, giving further credence to this theory. The exact history of this chapel remains a mystery, but it was clear that the area was not just a residential or commercial zone but also a spiritual centre.

The Tudor Era: Grand Visions and Dramatic Changes

The site’s transformation during the Tudor period was dramatic. When Edward Seymour seized the land for his palace, he wiped away much of the area’s existing mediaeval buildings. The excavation uncovered a wealth of material from this period, including foundations of large brick buildings that likely formed part of Somerset’s palace complex. This included the remnants of kitchens, storerooms, and even some sections of decorative garden walls.

Perhaps most striking was discovering a section of the palace’s original courtyard. The courtyard would have been at the heart of the palace’s activities, where nobles and courtiers gathered, and Somerset would have paraded his power. The excavated section revealed beautifully patterned stone pavements, suggesting that no expense was spared in constructing this luxurious palace. Yet, tragically for the Duke, much of this grandeur was never completed. He was executed before he could finish his dream, leaving future monarchs to shape the estate in their image.

Interestingly, the excavations also uncovered evidence of later Tudor use of the site. After Seymour’s death, Queen Elizabeth I had limited use for Somerset House. However, James I granted the property to his wife, Anne of Denmark, who undertook substantial renovations. The excavations found traces of these improvements, including fragments of Italian marble and decorated tiles, reflecting the queen’s desire to bring Renaissance splendour to her English residence. This Renaissance influence would have starkly contrasted with the more traditional Tudor architecture of the original palace.

The Transition into the Early Modern Period

As London transitioned into the early modern period, Somerset House’s role shifted. In the 17th century, royal consorts frequently used it, but its importance in the royal household declined. The archaeological findings from this period revealed a different type of use, with evidence of more mundane domestic activities. The large kitchens and storerooms of the Tudor palace were replaced by smaller, less grandiose structures, suggesting a more functional use of the space.

By the 18th century, when Somerset House was rebuilt in the neoclassical style we see today, much of the site’s earlier grandeur had been swept away. The excavations found evidence of these dramatic changes, with the foundations of older buildings cut through by the new construction. The team even found evidence of hurried demolition, as the site was cleared to make way for the new structure.

Unearthing London’s Hidden Past

The 2011 excavations at Somerset House revealed far more than anyone had expected. From the simple wooden homes of Saxon settlers to the grand courtyards of Tudor nobles, the site’s layers reflected the shifting fortunes of London.

Somerset House stands as a monument to London’s ability to reinvent itself. The excavation proved that beneath its grandeur lies a far more complex history that tells the story of the city’s people as much as its rulers. In this small patch of London, archaeologists uncovered evidence of a city constantly evolving, growing, and reshaping itself – a fitting metaphor for London itself.

Vikings in London: Raids, Conquest, and Trade

One of the most common misconceptions about the Vikings is that they were only violent brutes who raided and pillaged and particularly revelled in tormenting the Anglo-Saxon kingdoms on the Isle. That the Norsemen were violent and liked pillage, there is no dispute. But we should not forget they were traders much earlier than they became raiders. The mere fact that they founded two of the most thriving commercial entrepots on the opposite ends of Europe – Dublin and Kyev – should convince us so. It also explains why, after paying frequent visits to the shoreline monasteries of Eastern England, the Vikings set their eyes on the most substantial trading centre in the land and raided London on multiple occasions.

Viking Trade and the Importance of 9th-Century London

To understand why the Vikings set their sights on London, it’s essential to grasp their dual identity as traders and raiders. While they are often portrayed as marauders, the Vikings were also savvy merchants. Hailing from the Scandinavian lands of Norway, Sweden, and Denmark, they traded goods like furs, amber, walrus ivory, and slaves. Their far-reaching trade networks stretched from the icy North to the Mediterranean, encompassing the Islamic Caliphates and the Byzantine Empire. This extensive experience in trade gave them an eye for prosperous locations.

By the 9th century, London had begun to re-emerge as a significant centre of commerce after the collapse of Roman rule. Though it was not yet the sprawling metropolis it would become, its strategic location on the River Thames made it a valuable point for trade between the Continent and the English interior. Goods could be brought in by river, and the city’s proximity to the sea meant access to Europe was only a short voyage away. The Vikings, skilled navigators, would have quickly recognised this opportunity. For them, London wasn’t just a target for plunder but a potential hub for their trading activities.

However, for the Vikings, trade and raiding often went hand in hand. Where trade failed, force could take over. Their ships allowed them to strike coastal towns with great speed, catching settlements off-guard. This mix of trade and violence would shape their encounters with London.

The Raid of 842 AD: London in Flames

The first Viking attack on London occurred in 842 AD, later referred to as the year of the great slaughter. Details of this raid are sparse, but contemporary sources, such as the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, paint a vivid picture of destruction. Still recovering from centuries of decline following the fall of Roman rule, London was ill-prepared for the sudden Viking onslaught.

Arriving in their swift longships, the Vikings likely struck hard and fast. London was a tempting target, offering both wealth and prestige. The attackers set fire to buildings and slaughtered the inhabitants, showing little mercy. This tactic was designed to gather plunder and terrorise the population. The city’s defences at the time were weak, and the Vikings likely faced little organised resistance. This raid, though devastating, was a sign of things to come.

For the people of London, the 842 attack was a wake-up call. The threat from the sea was very real, and the Vikings showed no signs of slowing down their campaigns. Over the next few decades, London would find itself under repeated assault.

The Raid of 851 AD: A Fleet Like No Other

Just nine years after the initial attack, the Vikings returned, this time with even greater force. In 851 AD, a fleet of around 350 Viking ships sailed up the Thames, one of the largest naval forces seen in England at the time. For those watching from the shores of London, it must have been a terrifying sight—an armada of longships filled with warriors bent on conquest.

This raid was different from the one in 842. The Vikings had come to loot and establish dominance over the region. Led by Danish forces, they overran London, plundering the city once again. The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle describes this raid as part of a wider campaign that saw the Vikings defeat a local English force and then winter in the south, marking one of the earliest instances of Viking attempts to settle in England.

The 851 raid demonstrated the growing ambition of the Vikings. No longer content with hit-and-run attacks, they began to see England as a place where they could establish a more permanent presence. This marked a turning point in their relationship with the island. For Londoners, it meant that Viking raids were no longer just a passing danger—they were a persistent threat.

The Great Heathen Army and the Winter of 871-2

The year 865 saw the arrival of what would become known as the Great Heathen Army—a coalition of Viking forces that invaded England to conquer the various Anglo-Saxon kingdoms. By 871, their campaign had reached London. The city’s importance had only grown in the intervening years, and it was now a key prize in the Viking war effort.

Under the leadership of Halfdan Ragnarsson and Guthrum, the Vikings used London as a base during the winter of 871-2. The practice of wintering in enemy territory was a relatively new tactic for the Vikings. Rather than returning to Scandinavia after a raiding season, they remained in England, using the colder months to fortify their positions and launch attacks on nearby areas. This also gave them time to form alliances with local lords, further entrenching their control.

London’s strategic location again played a role in its importance to the Vikings. The city allowed them to control the river and maintain easy access to the Continent. It also provided a defensible position to continue their campaigns against the Anglo-Saxon kingdoms.

Though the Great Heathen Army did not hold London permanently, their occupation of the city in 871-2 was a sign of their growing power. For the Anglo-Saxons, it was clear that the Viking threat was not going away. Once again, London was at the heart of the struggle for control of England.

The Sieges of 1013 and 1016: London Under Danish Control

The Viking presence in London reached its zenith in the early 11th century, during the reign of King Æthelred the Unready. By this time, Viking raids had become almost annual, and the Danish ambition to conquer England was stronger than ever. In 1013, King Sweyn Forkbeard of Denmark launched a full-scale invasion of England, aiming to take the throne himself. London was one of his primary targets.

Sweyn’s siege of London in 1013 was a significant moment. By this time, the city had built stronger defences, including fortified walls, which made it a more challenging target than in previous centuries. Nevertheless, after several assaults, Sweyn managed to bring the city to its knees, and London eventually submitted to him. By the end of the year, Æthelred had fled into exile, and Sweyn was recognised as king of England.

However, Sweyn’s rule was short-lived. He died in 1014, and Æthelred returned from exile, retaking London. But the peace was fragile, and within two years, London was under siege again—this time by Sweyn’s son, Cnut. The siege of 1016 was one of the most brutal in London’s history. Cnut’s forces laid waste to the surrounding countryside and attempted to starve the city into submission.

After a series of battles and skirmishes, London finally fell to Cnut, who became king of England. His conquest marked the end of the Anglo-Saxon period in London’s history and the beginning of a new era of Danish rule.

Legacy of the Vikings in London

The Viking impact on London was profound. From the early raids of the 9th century to the conquests of the 11th, the city was shaped by its encounters with these Scandinavian warriors and traders. London’s defences were strengthened in response to the Viking threat, and its importance as a centre of trade and power grew as it became clear that whoever controlled London could control much of England.

Beyond the military clashes, the Vikings left a more subtle mark on the city’s development. Their influence lingered in the local economy as they integrated into trade networks that stretched from the British Isles to the broader Viking world. Archaeological discoveries, including Viking coins, jewellery, and tools, show they had a lasting presence in the city, even during relative peace.

London became a microcosm of the Viking influence on England in many ways. With its bustling port and diverse population, the city embodied the balance between conflict and cooperation that characterised the Viking Age. Viking raids brought destruction, but their trading expertise helped transform London into a more connected and economically dynamic city. As invaders, conquerors, and merchants, the Vikings made London one of their key hubs—a legacy still traced in the city’s fabric today.

Boudica’s Grave Under King’s Cross Station? More Than Unlikely!

If you want to rank the legendary burial places in Britain that have provoked the most speculation, Boudica’s grave will easily rank in the top three. One of the most persistent hypotheses is that the legendary queen of the Iceni tribe, who defied the Roman Empire, lies under King’s Cross station. While the story is alluring, it’s likely a blend of historical misinterpretation and modern fascination. Digging into the facts, there are compelling reasons why this theory doesn’t hold much weight. To understand why, we must first look at Boudica’s revolt, its aftermath, and her lasting legacy in British history.

The Spark That Ignited The Flame: Boudica’s Revolt in 60–61 AD

The Roman occupation of Britain began in earnest in 43 AD under Emperor Claudius. While the initial conquest met with success, resentment simmered among local tribes who found themselves under Roman rule. The Iceni tribe, led by King Prasutagus, enjoyed a degree of autonomy as a client state of Rome, but this arrangement was fragile at best. Prasutagus, hoping to secure his kingdom’s future, left his wealth jointly to his daughters and the Roman emperor in his will. However, upon his death, the Romans ignored his wishes. They annexed Iceni lands, flogged Prasutagus’ widow Boudica, and raped their daughters. This egregious act of brutality triggered an uprising of remarkable proportions.

Boudica rallied not just the Iceni but also neighbouring tribes like the Trinovantes. Their shared resentment of Roman taxation, land seizures, and mistreatment fuelled a fiery rebellion. The Roman governor, Gaius Suetonius Paulinus, was preoccupied with military campaigns on the island of Mona (modern-day Anglesey) at the time, leaving southern Britain vulnerable.

Boudica’s army, which was said to number over 100,000, descended first on the Roman settlement of Camulodunum (modern Colchester). The town, home to Roman veterans and a symbol of occupation, was utterly destroyed. With their defensive walls weak and no reinforcements to aid them, the settlement’s population was slaughtered, and the Temple of Claudius, where survivors had taken refuge, was razed to the ground.

From there, Boudica marched on Londinium (modern London), which, although a fledgling town, was a vital centre for trade and governance. Suetonius, recognising the lack of available troops to defend the city, abandoned it to the advancing rebels. The ferocity of Boudica’s forces was unmatched – they torched Londinium and slaughtered its inhabitants without mercy. Archaeological evidence of this destruction can still be found today, with a thick layer of ash marking the devastation wrought by Boudica’s army.

The town of Verulamium (modern St Albans) suffered a similar fate as Boudica’s forces ravaged the province. By the end of her campaign, an estimated 70,000–80,000 Romans and Britons loyal to Rome had been killed. But this brutal success was short-lived.

Suetonius regrouped with a modest force of about 10,000 men and faced Boudica in a decisive battle, likely somewhere along Watling Street in the Midlands. Though vastly outnumbered, the Romans’ military discipline and superior tactics led to a crushing victory. Boudica’s forces, encumbered by their families and wagons, were slaughtered in a massacre that shattered the rebellion.

The statue Boadicea and Her Daughters near Westminster Pier, London
By Paul Walter – Boudica statue, Westminster, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=54793030

The Making of a Legend: Boudica as a Symbol of British Resistance

Boudica’s defeat didn’t extinguish her story; instead, it lit the flame of her legend. Her struggle against the Romans, though ultimately unsuccessful, captured the imagination of later generations, especially as the concept of a distinct British identity began to take shape.

Boudica’s transformation into a symbol of British resistance can be attributed to several factors. First, there’s the sheer audacity of her revolt. She led a massive uprising that dealt significant blows to Roman control and resulted in the sacking of some of their most critical settlements. Her leadership, especially in the face of personal and national tragedy, showcased the indomitable spirit of the Britons.

Second, she represented a strong, defiant female figure in a patriarchal society. Her story, passed down through the centuries, was later embraced by the Victorians, who saw her embodying British imperialism’s virtues – courage, resilience, and a refusal to be dominated. Queen Victoria was often likened to Boudica, with sculptures of the warrior queen gracing public spaces, including the famous statue near Westminster Bridge.

Lastly, her story tapped into a broader theme of resistance against oppression. Just as the Britons resisted Roman occupation, later generations would draw parallels to their struggles – whether it was against Norman conquerors, the Spanish Armada, or even Nazi Germany. Boudica became a touchstone for defiance and a symbol of the “underdog” standing up to a much more powerful foe.

Comparing Boudica’s Revolt to Other Roman Rivals

While remarkable, Boudica’s revolt against Rome wasn’t the first or the last time the empire faced defiance from those it sought to conquer. Comparisons to other legendary adversaries, such as Spartacus, Hannibal, Vercingetorix, and Decebalus, provide a broader context for understanding Boudica’s role in the wider historical landscape.

A Thracian gladiator, Spartacus led a slave rebellion against Rome between 73 and 71 BC. His uprising, though focused on freeing slaves rather than resisting foreign occupation, similarly showcased Rome’s vulnerability when faced with an unexpected enemy. Like Boudica, Spartacus initially found success, defeating several Roman legions, but he was eventually crushed. Both figures became symbols of resistance, though Spartacus’ fight represented a struggle against the Roman social order, while Boudica’s was a fight for national sovereignty.

The Carthaginian general Hannibal, remains one of Rome’s most formidable enemies. His bold march across the Alps during the Second Punic War and subsequent victories, including the devastating defeat of Rome at the Battle of Cannae in 216 BC, shook the Roman world. Yet, like Boudica, Hannibal was defeated, though his campaign lasted far longer. While Hannibal’s struggle was part of a broader geopolitical conflict between Rome and Carthage, both he and Boudica represent how Rome, despite its strength, could be challenged by brilliant and determined leaders.

Vercingetorix, the chieftain of the Gauls, led a rebellion against Julius Caesar’s conquest of Gaul in 52 BC. Like Boudica, Vercingetorix united various tribes to repel Roman invaders. His stand at Alesia is one of the most famous last stands in Roman history, but, like Boudica, he was eventually captured and defeated. Vercingetorix’s image, like Boudica’s, was later revived as a symbol of national pride – in his case, for the French.

Decebalus, the king of Dacia, fought against Rome in the Dacian Wars during the late 1st and early 2nd centuries AD. His initial success against Emperor Domitian and his resilience against Trajan’s forces make his story akin to Boudica’s. However, after being defeated, Decebalus took his own life rather than submit to Roman capture, a fate that Roman historian Dio Cassius suggested Boudica also shared.

In each case, these leaders were ultimately unsuccessful in stopping Rome’s expansion, yet they all became legendary figures whose stories lived on as symbols of resistance.

The Case Against Boudica’s Grave at King’s Cross

So where does this leave the rumour that Boudica’s grave is beneath King’s Cross station? The idea, though captivating, falls apart under scrutiny.

Roman historian Dio Cassius described Boudica’s end as a tragic but somewhat anticlimactic affair. Following her defeat at the Battle of Watling Street, Boudica is believed to have either succumbed to illness or taken her own life through poison. Dio’s account mentions that she was given a proper burial, but details are scarce, leaving much to the imagination.

The idea that she was buried near what is now King’s Cross first surfaced in the Victorian era when Boudica’s legend was at its peak. King’s Cross was an important junction of London’s expanding railway network, and the area needed a mythic touch to counterbalance the grime of industrialisation. However, there is no archaeological evidence to support this claim.

Furthermore, the proximity of King’s Cross to Londinium, the very settlement she had razed to the ground, would have made such a burial highly unlikely. The Romans were meticulous about how they treated their enemies. It’s doubtful that they would have allowed a figure as infamous as Boudica to be buried near the very heart of their provincial capital. Such a location could have become a rallying point for local resistance, a dangerous symbol of defiance against Roman rule. The Romans, ever pragmatic, would never have permitted her grave to serve as a shrine for future dissenters.

South facade of King's Cross Station in London
By Bert Seghers – Own work, CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=32263447

The Elusive Grave: Why We May Never Find It

Many sites associated with her final battle and death have changed drastically over the centuries. Modern development, agricultural use, and the passage of time have obliterated many clues that might have once pointed to her final resting place. The battle at Watling Street remains a matter of speculation, with historians unable to pinpoint its exact location. Some suggest it occurred near Mancetter in Warwickshire, while others argue for Paulerspury in Northamptonshire. These conflicting theories further complicate efforts to locate Boudica’s grave.

Even if we could precisely determine the battle site, finding Boudica’s burial place would be like searching for a needle in a haystack. By Roman accounts, her body was not marked with grandeur, and she was not interred in a way that would be easy to find centuries later. Unlike Roman dignitaries or wealthy Britons, whose tombs were often lavish and adorned with grave goods, Boudica was likely given a relatively modest burial. Without significant monuments or markers, time and nature would have quickly erased the site.

The tendency to romanticise her grave as lying beneath a well-known modern landmark, such as King’s Cross, reflects more about our desire for her story to resonate today than it does historical fact. Fascinated by the blend of ancient history and modern life, Londoners have long been intrigued by the idea that such a powerful symbol of resistance could be beneath their feet. But this fascination risks overshadowing the broader, more realistic possibility – that Boudica was buried somewhere nondescript, far from Londinium and Roman power.

The Roman Attitude Toward Boudica’s Legacy

The Romans were well aware of the power of symbols, especially in a province as volatile as Britain. Allowing Boudica to be buried near a prominent Roman settlement like Londinium would have been a political risk. As a leader who had humiliated the empire, her grave could have become a focus of anti-Roman sentiment. Shrines or burial sites often became places of pilgrimage, and the Romans, who were masters of control, would not have wanted to provide the Britons with a potential rallying point for future rebellion.

It’s worth considering how the Romans dealt with other famous enemies. After his defeat by Julius Caesar, Vercingetorix was paraded through Rome as a prisoner before being executed and discarded. Spartacus, after his rebellion, was likely never given a formal burial at all, with his body lost among the tens of thousands of slaves crucified along the Appian Way. Hannibal, once one of Rome’s most feared enemies, took his own life rather than be captured, and his burial site is only vaguely recorded in historical texts. The Romans had no qualms about erasing the legacies of their foes, ensuring that their deaths did not inspire further resistance. Though slightly more ambiguous, Boudica’s fate likely followed a similar pattern.

The idea that the Romans would have allowed her burial in such proximity to Londinium – a city she had devastated – seems far-fetched. More likely, her body was buried far from any significant Roman site, in an unmarked location, either by her people or under Roman orders. There is even a possibility that, following her death, the Romans desecrated her body to send a message to other rebellious tribes. This would have further reduced any chance of finding her grave today.

The Legend Lives On

Boudica’s grave may never be found; perhaps it is better that way. The mystery of her final resting place adds to the intrigue of her story, allowing her to remain a figure of myth as much as history. While her revolt against the Romans ultimately failed, her legacy has endured for millennia. Whether she lies beneath King’s Cross or somewhere far more obscure, Boudica will continue to inspire and captivate, her story a testament to the power of resistance and the enduring allure of legend.

In the end, it’s not the exact location of her grave that matters most, but what her story represents: the fierce determination of a people to stand against oppression, even in the face of overwhelming odds. And in that sense, Boudica’s spirit will live on wherever she may rest.

The Lost Gem Of Ancient Londinium – The Roman Basilica

Have you ever visited the small, cosy Italian restaurant “Giorgo” on Lime Street? It is a great place to catch a breather and grab a bite, and a favourite stop whenever I roam central London. But what if I told you that on that very place almost two thousand years ago stood the most imposing edifice to be built in Britain for the next millennium? This must surely be an exaggeration, you would respond. And you would be wrong.

Londinium, the bustling Roman settlement that once stood where modern London thrives, was no ordinary provincial outpost. By the 2nd century AD, it was a glittering hub of commerce, culture, and Roman might. Among its most monumental structures were the basilica and forum, a complex that rivalled anything else in the Roman Empire. The basilica was more than just a building; it was a statement, a physical testament to Rome’s power. Larger than the present-day St Paul’s Cathedral, this lost gem was a striking example of Roman architecture, culture, and the unforgiving sweep of history.

The Basilica and Forum of Londinium: A Titan of Roman Britain

By the early 2nd century AD, Londinium had grown from a humble trading post into the most significant city in Roman Britain. The Roman authorities had grand plans for it, and at the heart of these ambitions stood the basilica and forum, some of the most impressive public buildings ever raised in this distant province.

The basilica, a towering structure of over 500 feet long and more than 80 feet wide, was a marvel of Roman engineering. For perspective, it dwarfs the contemporary St Paul’s Cathedral, the very emblem of modern London’s skyline. It wasn’t just the impressive size but the ambition behind it. The basilica wasn’t built for any singular purpose. In typical Roman fashion, it was a multi-functional space designed to impress, administrate, and govern.

In Roman cities, the basilica was the beating heart of civic life. Part town hall, part courthouse, and part business hub, the Londinium Basilica followed this tradition. Merchants gathered here to finalise trade deals, judges presided over trials, and officials discussed the city’s administration. Roman Britain might have been remote from the empire’s bustling heart, but with the basilica in Londinium, it had a slice of Rome itself.

But the basilica was only one half of this monumental complex. Adjoining it was the forum, a vast open space equally significant in the city’s life. The forum and basilica formed the civic and administrative centre, where politics, religion, and commerce collided. The citizens of Londinium would have flocked to this complex, their lives interwoven with the functions these buildings served.

The Forum: Londinium’s Beating Heart

The forum was the city’s nerve centre at the zenith of Londinium’s prosperity. It functioned as a public square, market, and ceremonial space all at once, its role echoing the forums in Rome itself. Lined with colonnades and surrounded by public buildings, the forum was where every aspect of Roman life came together. Traders set up their stalls, hawking goods from across the empire, soldiers on leave shared stories from distant frontiers, and politicians made speeches to the gathered crowds.

The design of the forum was pure Roman ambition. Measuring roughly 400 by 200 feet, it was one of the largest north of the Alpes. Its rectangular layout mirrored the grandeur of similar spaces in cities like Pompeii and Ephesus, providing a glimpse into what Londinium aspired to be. The forum wasn’t just functional; it was symbolic. To have such a grand space in the heart of Londinium declared the city’s importance to the empire.

At its centre stood the basilica, a massive backdrop to the bustling life of the forum. Imagine Londinium at its height in the 2nd century: the great basilica looming over a sea of merchants, officials, and citizens, its high roofline visible from far outside the city. Roman architecture was designed to awe, and the Londinium forum-basilica complex succeeded brilliantly. The sight of the sun glinting off the tiled roof, the marble columns rising against the skyline—it was Londinium’s answer to the imperial splendour of Rome.

Inside, the basilica was a hive of activity. Civil courts heard cases, merchants brokered their latest deals, and magistrates handled the city’s administration. The basilica’s interior would have been no less impressive than its exterior, with high ceilings, sweeping arches, and columns echoing Roman public spaces’ classical grandeur. It must have been a bustling place, filled with the sounds of people going about their daily business against the backdrop of this monumental setting.

The Inauspicious End: Carausius and Londinium’s Betrayal

By the end of the 3rd century AD, Londinium’s fortunes took a sharp turn. The Roman Empire was in a state of turmoil, facing external threats and internal rebellions. One such figure who rose to prominence was Marcus Aurelius Carausius, a military commander of humble origins who saw an opportunity in the empire’s fractured state.

Around AD 286, Carausius declared himself emperor of Britain and northern Gaul, essentially cutting off these territories from the Roman Empire. Londinium, being the largest city in Roman Britain, found itself in the heart of this rebellion. Under Carausius, the city thrived briefly, as his rule brought stability, even if it was at odds with the empire. He styled himself as the legitimate ruler, minting coins with his image and holding court in Londinium.

But this era of independence was short-lived. In AD 293, Carausius was assassinated by his finance minister, Allectus, who then seized power. Eager to reclaim its lost province, Rome sent forces to suppress the rebellion. In AD 296, the Roman general Constantius Chlorus (the father of Constantine the Great) launched a successful invasion, retaking Britain and ending the separatist regime.

As punishment for Londinium’s support of Carausius, the basilica was destroyed. The once proud symbol of Roman order and civilisation was reduced to rubble. What had stood as a beacon of the empire’s presence in Britain now lay in ruins, a victim of imperial wrath. It was a brutal reminder of Rome’s control, the basilica’s destruction serving as a warning to other cities that might consider rebellion.

Excavating the Ruins: A Lost Legacy

For centuries, the ruins of Londinium’s basilica lay buried beneath layers of London’s ever-growing urban sprawl. By the time London began to expand significantly in the medieval and modern periods, the once mighty basilica had been all but forgotten. Occasionally, remnants were discovered—stones and fragments of walls—but it wasn’t until the late 19th century that serious excavations began to uncover the true scale of what had once stood in the heart of Roman Londinium.

In 1881, during construction work in the City of London, builders unearthed significant remains of what was believed to be the basilica. Archaeologists quickly identified parts of the foundations, sections of the walls, and even some decorative features that hinted at the building’s former grandeur. But much of the basilica was lost. Centuries of rebuilding, expansion, and the changing course of the River Thames had eroded the basilica’s physical presence. Most of what had once been a massive structure had either been repurposed or destroyed.

The forum and basilica complex, which had once dominated Londinium, was now merely a ghost, a handful of ruins buried beneath the streets of modern London. Today, almost no visible trace remains. Some sections of the walls have been incorporated into modern buildings (one such fragment can be seen in the basement of a barber’s shop at the corner of Gracechurch Street and Leadenhall Market), and occasionally, small fragments of the basilica are found during excavations. But for the most part, the grandeur of the Roman basilica has been erased by time.

Yet its legacy endures. Every stone, every fragment that remains speaks to Londinium’s role in the Roman Empire. It was a provincial capital that dared to rival the cities of mainland Europe. The basilica and forum were symbols of that ambition, towering monuments to Roman order and civilisation. Today, as we walk the streets of modern London, it’s worth remembering that beneath our feet lies the lost gem of ancient Londinium, the basilica that once stood as a testament to the city’s Roman past.

Conclusion: A Glimpse into Roman Britain’s Ambition

The Roman Basilica of Londinium wasn’t just a building but a testament to Roman ambition in Britain. Larger than St Paul’s Cathedral, it symbolised the importance of Londinium within the empire. The forum, with its markets and public spaces, was the heartbeat of the city, a place where commerce, politics, and daily life flourished. But like many symbols of power, the basilica met a tragic end, destroyed as punishment for Londinium’s support of a renegade emperor. Today, almost nothing remains, but the legacy of this lost gem still lingers, offering a tantalising glimpse into the grandeur of ancient Londinium.

Jewel Tower: The Plantagenet Sentinel At Westminster

The Jewel Tower, a small but historically significant landmark in the heart of Westminster, London, often flies under the radar of tourists and locals alike. This unassuming building, constructed in the 14th century, is one of the few remnants of the medieval Palace of Westminster that survived centuries of change, destruction, and transformation. It once housed the royal treasures of Edward III, protecting gold, silver, and other riches from thieves and fire. Today, it offers a rare glimpse into the life and architecture of medieval London. Unlike many grander sites in the capital, the Jewel Tower provides an intimate and peaceful experience, transporting visitors back to a time when England was a dominant force in Europe. Its thick walls, narrow windows, and surviving stone carvings all bear testimony to the turbulent and regal history of England, making it a truly fascinating place to explore.

A Tower Built for Treasure

Jewel Tower Old Palace Yard London
lonpicman, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=965022

The Jewel Tower was constructed between 1365 and 1366 during the reign of King Edward III, at the height of his reign and when England was a dominant power in Europe. At this time, England was basking in the aftermath of the Battle of Poitiers, a decisive English victory in 1356 during the Hundred Years’ War against France. The battle was a momentous win for the English army and significantly boosted Edward III’s position as a monarch. His regime, known for its military successes, chivalric culture, and ambitions to consolidate royal power, left a tangible mark on the country’s infrastructure. The Jewel Tower was part of that legacy.

The tower was initially designed to house the monarch’s treasures, including precious jewels, gold, and silverware. Given its royal significance, it was carefully built to be fireproof, solid, and secure. The construction is remarkable for its era, with walls made of Kentish ragstone, a durable material that has survived the ravages of time, and a moat that once encircled it, providing further protection. The tower was also part of the wider Palace of Westminster complex, where kings held court and where the Houses of Parliament stand today.

Historical Context: The Zenith of Plantagenet Rule

The building of the Jewel Tower took place during one of England’s golden eras, just a decade after the triumph at Poitiers. Edward III’s reign marked the peak of Plantagenet rule, characterised by military prowess and the establishment of English identity through events such as the founding of the Order of the Garter and victories in the Hundred Years’ War. England’s nobility, adorned in extravagant garments, embraced courtly life and romanticised notions of knighthood. It was a time of great prestige for the English crown as the kingdom asserted its dominance over its neighbours and strengthened its place on the European stage.

Yet, this period wasn’t without its challenges. The Black Death had swept through Europe a few years earlier, devastating populations, including England’s. Nonetheless, England’s wealth was growing, fuelled by its victories in France, and Edward III was determined to preserve his treasures and maintain the grandeur of his reign. The construction of the Jewel Tower was one of several projects designed to bolster royal authority and secure valuable possessions. At this point, the Plantagenets were still in firm control, unaware of the eventual dynastic struggles and civil wars that would erupt in later centuries.

Jewel Tower’s Architectural Legacy

Though modest in size compared to other medieval fortifications, the Jewel Tower is architecturally significant. Its three floors are constructed with thick walls and trim and arched windows, providing a blend of security and elegance. The tower’s original purpose is reflected in its name—this was a place where treasures were stored, away from the bustling public life of the palace, in a secluded area accessible only to the monarch and trusted courtiers.

Inside, the tower offers a glimpse of how it may have been used during its heyday. Visitors can walk through its narrow, winding staircases and peer out of its tiny windows, imagining what it was like when it was packed with treasure chests and royal valuables. Original features, such as the medieval fireplaces and stone vaulting, add to the atmosphere of authenticity.

In the 20th century, the Jewel Tower underwent careful restoration to preserve its medieval character. Much of its original structure was repaired during this period, and the surrounding moat was excavated, further highlighting its historic role as a fortified treasure house. The restoration work has ensured that the tower remains one of the most intact examples of 14th-century architecture in Westminster.

A 21st-Century Museum and Tourist Spot

Today, Jewel Tower is managed by English Heritage and operates as a museum that tells the story of its long history and the changing landscape of Westminster. The exhibits focus on its original function as a storehouse for royal treasures. Still, they also explore its later use as a records office for the House of Lords and a location for testing official weights and measures in the 19th century. Visitors can explore the interactive displays and artefacts that span the building’s various uses over the centuries.

The tower offers a peaceful contrast to the more crowded tourist attractions in Westminster, providing an oasis of history and calm just a short distance from the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Its charm lies in its simplicity and ability to take visitors back in time. Few places in London allow one to experience the past as intimately as in the Jewel Tower, making it a must-see for anyone interested in the city’s medieval history.

Getting to the Jewel Tower: Location and Transport Links

The Jewel Tower is conveniently located in the heart of Westminster, just a short walk from some of London’s most iconic landmarks. It sits near the southern end of Westminster Abbey’s precincts, on the corner of Abingdon Street and Old Palace Yard, close to the River Thames. Its proximity to the Palace of Westminster makes it easy to visit alongside nearby attractions such as Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, and the Churchill War Rooms.

For public transport, the tower is well-served by several tube stations. Westminster station, on the Jubilee, District, and Circle lines, is just a five-minute walk away. St. James’s Park station, on the District and Circle lines, is also within walking distance, providing an alternative route to the tower. Multiple bus routes, including 11, 24, and 148, stop nearby, making it accessible from different parts of London.

If you’re coming from further afield, London Victoria Station is the closest major train hub, just a 15-minute walk or a short bus ride away. Visitors can also arrive via riverboat services on the Thames, with the Westminster Pier offering a scenic approach to the tower. Cycling is another option, as the area has dedicated bike lanes and docking stations for London’s bike-sharing scheme.

The Jewel Tower’s Place in London’s Heritage

The Jewel Tower may not dominate the London skyline like the Shard or St. Paul’s Cathedral, but its historical significance is undeniable. It is a quiet reminder of the medieval world that once existed in Westminster, offering a more personal connection to England’s past. For those who appreciate the stories behind the stones, the Jewel Tower provides a fascinating look at a bygone era when kings safeguarded their treasures, not only from enemies but from the unpredictability of life in a medieval city. Visiting this lesser-known gem lets you enter a hidden chapter of London’s vast and varied history.

The Top 10 Ruins To Visit In London

London’s skyline might look like the cover of a sci-fi novel, but it will not take you long to find the traces of its two-millennia-long urban history. The bustling capital of Roman Britannia lost much of its lustre in the Dark Ages, but it still attracted the attention of the Vikings and the Normans after them. You can still find them all on the city streets – Romans, Saxons, Vikings and the English of the early Plantagenet era. You just have to know where to look.

1. The Roman Amphitheatre: Echoes of Gladiators

Buried beneath the bustling Guildhall in the heart of the City of London lies the Roman Amphitheatre, a site that has been forgotten for centuries. Discovered only in 1988 during redevelopment work, this ancient arena once held up to 7,000 spectators who gathered to watch gladiators fight for glory.

The remains of the amphitheatre’s stone walls and timber seating outline what was once the stage for bloody contests and Roman sports. As you wander through the exposed foundations, you can almost hear the roars of the crowd and feel the tension in the air as gladiators prepared for battle. Today, the amphitheatre has been cleverly incorporated into the Guildhall Art Gallery, allowing visitors to experience this hidden slice of Roman Britain while admiring fine art.

2. The Wall of Londinium: Roman Fortifications

The Wall of Londinium is one of the city’s most enduring remnants of its Roman past. Erected around 200 AD, the wall stretched for over three miles, encircling the Roman town of Londinium and offering protection from Saxon raiders. Much of it has since crumbled or been built over, but fragments can still be seen in several locations around the city.

One of the best-preserved sections can be found near Tower Hill, where you’ll spot the imposing stonework peeking through the modern cityscape. Walking along the ruins gives you a sense of the fortifications’ original grandeur, and it’s easy to imagine Roman soldiers pacing along its length, standing guard over a bustling Londinium.

A surviving fragment of the original 3rd-century Roman Wall in Cooper's Row near Tower Hill
By John Winfield, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3186845

3. Billingsgate Roman House & Baths: Life in Ancient London

Tucked away beneath the bustling streets of modern-day London lies the Billingsgate Roman House & Baths. This archaeological treasure offers a fascinating glimpse into domestic life in Roman Britain. Discovered in the 19th century during building work, this well-preserved site includes the foundations of a Roman house and its accompanying bathhouse.

The bathhouse was a central part of Roman social life, and the Billingsgate site provides a detailed look at how Roman Londoners enjoyed their leisure time. Visitors can walk around the remnants of heated floors, plunge pools, and steam rooms, all beautifully preserved. While relatively small, the site offers a window into the everyday luxuries enjoyed by wealthy Romans nearly two thousand years ago.

A fragment of the Billingsgate Bathhouse
By Carla Brain – Billingsgate Bath House, 23 September 2018 (14), CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=73279040

4. Spitalfields Charnel House: A Forgotten Burial Ground

Located in the heart of the East End, Spitalfields Charnel House is one of London’s more eerie ruins. This 14th-century burial vault was part of the mediaeval priory of St Mary Spital and served as a resting place for hundreds of human remains. In case you’re wondering, a charnel house was used to store bones when a cemetery became overcrowded.

Long forgotten, the Spitalfields Charnel House was rediscovered in the late 1990s during a development project. Today, visitors can explore this haunting site, where the stone walls still exude a faint chill. Though its origins were purely practical, it’s hard not to feel the weight of history when standing among the remains of London’s mediaeval past.

5. The London Mithraeum: A Secret Roman Temple

Deep beneath the towering skyscrapers of the City of London lies the London Mithraeum, a hidden gem that once served as a temple to the god Mithras. Originally built in the 3rd century AD, this subterranean temple was used for secret rituals by followers of the Mithraic cult, a mysterious religion popular among Roman soldiers.

The Mithraeum was discovered in 1954 during excavation work and has since been meticulously reconstructed. Visitors can now descend into the depths of the Bloomberg building to experience a hauntingly atmospheric recreation of the ancient temple, complete with projections and soundscapes that bring the rituals of the past to life. It’s a fascinating reminder of the strange and diverse religious practices that once flourished in Roman London.

A fragment of the London Mithraeum at the Bloomberg Space
By Gapfall – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=65205231

6. WELL Tower: London’s Hidden Norman Fortress

Tucked away in an unassuming corner of central London stands the WELL Tower, a hidden fragment of Norman architecture that’s easy to overlook but impossible to forget once you’ve spotted it. Built shortly after the Norman Conquest in the late 11th century, the WELL Tower is all that remains of a much larger complex that once formed part of London’s defensive walls.

Although its surrounding structures have long since disappeared, the WELL Tower offers a rare glimpse into London’s Norman past. Its weathered stone walls and narrow windows speak of a time when the Normans ruled with an iron grip, fortifying their control over the newly conquered city. The tower is a must-see for anyone interested in the Norman influence on London’s development.

7. Winchester Palace: Mediaeval Grandeur

Once one of the grandest buildings in London, Winchester Palace was the London residence of the powerful Bishops of Winchester during the Middle Ages. Built in the 12th century, it was a lavish complex with a great hall, cloisters, and even a riverside garden. Today, all that remains of this once-magnificent structure is the western wall of the great hall, which stands as a lonely monument to the past.

The most striking feature of the ruins is the large rose window, which still bears the intricate stone tracery of its original design. Standing before this weathered relic, you can easily imagine the grandeur of Winchester Palace in its heyday. The ruins are a poignant reminder of London’s mediaeval history, now quietly nestled among the city’s bustling streets.

8. St. Alphage Church: A Forgotten London Parish

Hidden in plain sight, the ruins of St. Alphage Church are easy to miss as you wander through the Barbican area. Once a thriving parish church, St. Alphage’s origins date back to the 11th century, although the current ruins date from the 14th century. The church was largely destroyed during the dissolution of the monasteries in the 16th century, and only fragments of the walls and a few archways remain today.

Despite its ruined state, St. Alphage is a peaceful spot to pause and reflect on London’s religious history. The remains of the church are surrounded by modern office buildings, making it a curious juxtaposition of old and new, where the past quietly endures amid the city’s constant transformation.

9. Jewel Tower: A Survivor of Westminster’s Past

Standing just across the road from the Houses of Parliament, the Jewel Tower is one of the few surviving remnants of the mediaeval Palace of Westminster. Built in the 1360s, the tower was initially constructed to house the royal treasures of Edward III and served as a secure storehouse for the king’s valuables.

Over the centuries, the Jewel Tower has had many uses, from a storage facility for parliamentary records to a testing site for official weights and measures. Today, it’s open to visitors, offering a rare chance to explore a mediaeval structure that has witnessed the rise and fall of dynasties, the execution of kings, and the birth of modern British politics.

10. Sutton Hoo: Saxon Secrets in the British Museum

Though not a ruin in the traditional sense, Sutton Hoo represents one of the most extraordinary archaeological finds in British history. Located at the British Museum, this exhibit features treasures from Suffolk’s famous Anglo-Saxon burial site. Discovered in 1939, Sutton Hoo is best known for its ship burial, which included a wealth of artefacts thought to belong to a 7th-century Anglo-Saxon king.

The collection’s highlight is the iconic Sutton Hoo helmet, an intricately decorated piece that has become one of the most recognisable symbols of Anglo-Saxon England. While the ruins of the actual burial site are in Suffolk, the British Museum’s display offers a fascinating insight into the world of the early Anglo-Saxons and their elaborate funerary customs.

London wears its history on its sleeve, yet many of its most fascinating stories lie hidden beneath the surface. From Roman amphitheatres and temples to Norman fortresses and mediaeval palaces, these ruins offer a captivating glimpse into the past, revealing the layers of history that make London such a rich and complex city to explore. Whether you’re a history buff or simply curious about the city’s hidden corners, these ancient sites are well worth a visit.

Why The Wimbledon Iron Age Hill Fort Had Nothing To Do With Caesar

What is the first thing that comes to mind when you hear the phrase Caesar in Britain? Most casual people would probably answer the hilarious movies about Asterix and Obelix. History aficionados will likely discuss Caesar’s abortive attacks on the island – one of his few strategic errors during the Gallic campaigns.

However, an unforeseen consequence of his reconnaissance in 55-54 BC (for it hardly merits another title) is the headstrong insistence of local antiquarians to call too many things vaguely related to Roman history “Caesar’s”. Unfortunately, the Iron Age hill fort does not escape this fate. However, archaeology proves it is much older, and Caesar himself told us in De Bello Galico that he ventured nowhere near London.

An Iron Age Fort Overlooking London

The Iron Age hill fort on Wimbledon Common might not be as well-known as some of the UK’s more famous ancient sites, but its significance is undeniable. Situated in southwest London, on a natural ridge that rises to around 57 metres, the fort offers panoramic views that would have made it a strategic location in its heyday. It covers approximately 11 acres, making it one of the larger hill forts in southern Britain, though places like Maiden Castle in Dorset dwarf it.

Archaeologists date the fort to the late Iron Age, around 700-100 BC when these hill forts were built across Britain. Hill forts were often used as defensive positions but also functioned as social, economic, and political centres for the tribes living there. The Wimbledon hill fort would have served a similar purpose for the people who inhabited this region long before the Romans arrived.

Excavations have uncovered traces of ditches and ramparts, as well as the defensive earthworks surrounding the fort, typical of Iron Age fortifications. The remains suggest a double-banked enclosure with a ditch between the two banks. However, the hill fort has suffered from natural erosion and human interference over the centuries, leaving only faint traces visible to the naked eye today. Walkers on Wimbledon Common might pass it by without even noticing they’re treading on ancient ground.

Fragments of pottery and other small artefacts recovered from the site give us a glimpse into the people’s daily lives. These finds indicate trade links with other parts of Britain and possibly even continental Europe, showing that the inhabitants connected more with the broader world than expected from a hilltop settlement.

Caesar’s Camp: The Misleading Name

Despite its genuine ancient origins, the hill fort is often confused with Caesar’s Camp, a name that pops up frequently in local history and folklore. This is where the real historical detective work begins, as the idea that Julius Caesar was somehow involved with this site is pure fantasy. Caesar’s Camp is a misnomer applied to several ancient earthworks across the UK, and the one at Wimbledon is no exception.

Julius Caesar did invade Britain in 55 and 54 BC, but his campaign was brief and did not take him anywhere near Wimbledon. Caesar’s two attempts to subdue Britain were relatively limited in scope, and he never ventured far from the southeastern coast. His first expedition in 55 BC was a reconnaissance mission of sorts, and after landing near modern-day Deal, he spent only a few weeks in the country before heading back to Gaul.

His second invasion in 54 BC was more significant, with a larger force and a more prolonged stay. Yet, even during this second invasion, Caesar remained in the south and southeast, focusing on the tribes in Kent and along the Thames. There is no evidence that he travelled as far as Wimbledon, which was well beyond his sphere of activity. The tribes he encountered, such as the Cantiaci of Kent, differed from those who lived in the area that would later become London.

So why the persistent association with Caesar? The name “Caesar’s Camp” was likely a product of later romanticisation. In the 18th and 19th centuries, antiquarians and local historians often attributed anything vaguely Roman or ancient to Caesar. It was a convenient shorthand for mystery and antiquity but hardly accurate. Naming hill forts after Caesar became a tradition but has confused generations of historians and visitors alike.

Did The Romans Ever Attack Wimbledon Hill Fort?

While Julius Caesar can be ruled out as having any connection to the Wimbledon hill fort, that doesn’t mean the Romans never laid eyes on it. It’s possible that the fort was involved in the Roman conquest of Britain, just not during Caesar’s campaigns. The real Roman threat came nearly a century later, during the invasion under Emperor Claudius in AD 43.

This was the conquest that truly brought Britain into the Roman Empire. Claudius sent four legions to subdue the island, and their progress was much more extensive than Caesar’s earlier attempts. One of these legions, Legio II Augusta, was led by a future emperor — Vespasian. The II Augusta played a crucial role in the conquest, striking west and south as they fought to pacify the British tribes.

Wimbledon’s hill fort may have been in the path of this Roman war machine. Although there is no direct evidence of a Roman attack on the fort, the location places it within the potential theatre of operations. The II Augusta’s march likely took them through areas not far from modern-day London as they advanced towards the west and southwest.

What we know of the Romans’ tactics supports the idea that they may have attacked or at least encountered the hill fort. The Romans were systematic in their approach to conquest, attacking or neutralising any fortified positions that could pose a threat. Hill forts like the one at Wimbledon would have been prime targets for the Romans as they swept through the landscape, subduing local tribes and consolidating their control.

What would a Roman attack on Wimbledon hill fort have looked like? Given the size and construction of the fort, it’s possible that the Romans would have used their famous siege techniques to breach the defences. The fort’s inhabitants, likely members of a local tribe, would have put up a fight. Still, the disciplined Roman legions were known for their efficiency in overcoming even the most formidable defences.

Whether Wimbledon’s hill fort fell to a Roman assault or not, the period of Roman expansion into Britain was a turning point for the region. By the time of Claudius’ conquest, many of the old ways of life that had characterised the Iron Age were coming to an end, replaced by Roman roads, towns, and the inexorable spread of Roman culture.

The Enduring Mystery Of Wimbledon’s Hill Fort

Despite the evidence that Wimbledon’s hill fort was an active part of the region’s pre-Roman history, much remains a mystery. Archaeologists have uncovered tantalising clues, but many questions will remain unanswered without more extensive excavations. Who exactly built the fort? What role did it play in local politics and warfare? And was it indeed attacked by Roman forces during their conquest of Britain?

While we may never know the full story, what is clear is that the hill fort had nothing to do with Julius Caesar. The name Caesar’s Camp is a historical red herring, and attributing the site to Caesar only obscures its true significance. The real story of Wimbledon’s hill fort is one of Iron Age power and the dramatic changes brought by the Roman invasion.

Today, visitors to Wimbledon Common can walk among the ancient earthworks and reflect on when this quiet corner of London was a bustling centre of life and, possibly, a battlefield in the long and complex history of Britain’s Roman conquest. In the shadow of history, the fort stands as a reminder of the deep roots of this landscape, long before Wimbledon became synonymous with tennis.

Who Was The Unknown London Girl Buried Beneath The Gherkin?

If you ever happen to pass along the Gherkin, you surely have noticed the dark grey sarcophagus with the Latin inscription on its side. You might have mistaken it for a monument of sorts, and in a way, it is—a monument to a mystery. One that came to light in the 1990s was a mystery involving a young girl buried in the heart of ancient Londinium a few decades before the end of Roman rule over the Isle.

This is the story of the unknown girl whose final resting place lay undiscovered for centuries, only to be revealed by the chaos of a bombing and the careful work of archaeologists.

A Bomb, A Discovery: The Mystery Uncovered

On 10 April 1992, the IRA detonated a bomb in the heart of London, right in the financial district near the Baltic Exchange. The explosion was devastating, causing extensive damage to buildings and the surrounding area. The site was left in ruins, but amidst the debris of the modern city, the bombing indirectly led to a remarkable discovery.

As the area underwent repairs and reconstruction, archaeologists were called in. Excavations were necessary before new foundations could be laid. Soon enough, they stumbled upon a Roman burial site that had remained undisturbed for over 1,500 years. Among the ancient finds was the body of a young girl, her identity and life an enigma waiting to be unravelled.

The unknown girl lay beneath what is now 30 St Mary Axe, better known as The Gherkin. As you stand in front of this towering glass structure, it’s hard to imagine that once, beneath its gleaming modern exterior, a child’s final resting place stood quietly hidden, marking a different era altogether.

What Do We Know About The Girl?

The remains of the girl believed to be between 13 and 17 years old, offer some clues but no definitive answers. The date of her burial suggests that she lived around 350 to 400 AD, during the latter days of Roman rule in Britain. She was laid to rest in a traditional pose for a late-Roman burial, although this fact signifies neither her ethnicity nor her social standing. But beyond these sparse facts, much about her life remains a mystery.

What’s particularly intriguing is that the girl’s remains were found within the boundaries of what would have been Roman Londinium but outside the city walls. At that time, burials were commonly placed outside city limits due to both Roman customs and laws. The position of her grave implies that her community lived close to, but not necessarily within, the bustling heart of Londinium itself.

Archaeologists also discovered no grave goods buried with her, a feature that might have helped identify her origins or beliefs. This raises tantalising questions: Was she part of a wealthy Roman-British family? Was she an early Christian, laid to rest following new religious customs? We can only speculate based on the little that survives.

Londinium: What Did It Look Like Around 350-400 AD?

At the time of the unknown girl’s burial, Roman Britain was in its twilight. The Roman Empire’s influence was waning, and Londinium, once a thriving hub of trade, military operations, and politics, was beginning to see its own decline. The grand structures that had once dominated the skyline – the basilica, the amphitheatre, and the forum – were either in disrepair or slowly falling out of use.

Yet, Londinium still bustled with life. The city lay on the northern bank of the Thames, and its riverside location made it a critical point for trade routes stretching across the Empire. Warehouses, workshops, and merchants’ stalls lined the streets, but signs of change were already in the air. Invasions by Saxon pirates had made the city’s defensive walls crucial for protection, while many villas and estates began to appear in the surrounding countryside.

By 400 AD, the British economy and urban life were shifting. Londinium was no longer the powerhouse it once was but was far from abandoned. The Roman presence might have weakened, but Roman culture lingered in daily life, and the girl’s burial would have been one of many during this transition period between Roman control and the rise of native British and early Saxon kingdoms.

Burial Practices: The Roman Way of Death

Understanding how the girl was buried helps us place her within Roman customs. Roman burial practices varied over time and location, influenced by social class, local traditions, and religious beliefs. Cremation was the dominant form of burial in the earlier Roman period. Still, by the time the unknown girl lived, inhumation (burial of the body intact) had become far more common.

The switch from cremation to burial was gradual, but by the late 3rd and 4th centuries, it was almost universal in Roman Britain. Grave goods, from personal items like jewellery to offerings of food and drink, were often included to accompany the dead on their journey to the afterlife. However, this young girl’s grave held none of these, potentially reflecting a Christian influence or the simple preferences of her family.

Could She Have Been Christian?

One of the most compelling aspects of this discovery is the question of the girl’s religion. Britain in the 4th century was a land of religious change. Christianity had begun to spread across the Roman Empire after Emperor Constantine’s conversion, and by the time of this girl’s death, Christian communities were present in Londinium.

The absence of grave goods suggests a possible Christian influence. Early Christian burials often followed simpler practices, devoid of the rich offerings typical of pagan Roman burials. However, without any definitive religious symbols (like a cross or religious inscription), it’s difficult to say what faith the girl adhered to.

Historians caution against jumping to conclusions about her being Christian, and some argue that referring to her as “Roman” might also be misleading. While she was buried during Roman rule and within Roman customs, it’s entirely possible that her family was of native British descent, Romanised only through centuries of occupation. To call her a Roman might be to impose an identity on her that we cannot fully substantiate.

Roman Or Romanticised?

We often romanticise figures like this unknown girl, eager to fill in the gaps left by history. In truth, we know very little about her life or identity, yet she sparks our imagination. Was she a Roman citizen? A Briton living under Roman rule? Was she Christian, pagan, or something else entirely? These are questions we may never answer.

However, we can appreciate that her burial and existence connect us directly to Londinium’s ancient past. She lived in a city undergoing dramatic change at a time when empires rose and fell, and she was laid to rest beneath what would one day become one of London’s most recognisable buildings.

Her story reminds us that every piece of ground we walk on carries layers of history, and sometimes, an unexpected event—like a bombing—can reveal those layers and the people who lived and died beneath them.

Today, the unknown girl beneath The Gherkin continues to captivate historians and Londoners alike. We may never know her name, but through the efforts of archaeologists and the fragments of history they uncover, we keep her memory alive, preserving her place in the long, rich story of London’s past.

The Complete History of Thames Ammunition Works in Slade Green, Erith: Origins, Evolution, and Legacy

This article explores the historical trajectory of the Thames Ammunition Works located in Slade Green, Erith. It details the site’s pre-industrial use, the foundation and operations of the factory, significant incidents, and its impact on the local community. The study also captures the legacy of the site, its transformation post-closure, and the lasting social and historical significance in the region.

Introduction

The Thames Ammunition Works in Slade Green was an essential component of the British munitions industry, especially during periods of heightened conflict, such as the Boer War and World War I. This research aims to comprehensively document the site’s history, including its establishment, major incidents, societal impacts, and eventual decline. Understanding the development and influence of such facilities helps paint a picture of the regional industrial heritage and its contribution to national efforts during times of war.

Pre-Industrial History of the Site

Early Landscape and Usage

Before the rise of industrial activity, the area that became Slade Green was predominantly marshland, characterized by a network of waterways that defined much of the Thames estuary region. Historical maps from the early 19th century, including old Ordnance Survey records, indicate that the land was largely uninhabited and used for limited agricultural purposes. Farmers cultivated hardy crops that could withstand the often waterlogged soils, while small-scale fishing supplemented local diets. There were no significant settlements, and the proximity to the River Thames suggested that the area may have been used intermittently for livestock grazing.

Ownership and Land Use in the Early 19th Century

Ownership of the land prior to the factory’s establishment was held by private landowners who exploited the marshy terrain for basic agriculture and livestock rearing. Archival council documents suggest that the land’s utility was largely undervalued until the mid-19th century, when the growing urbanisation of nearby Woolwich and the associated military presence in the area made Slade Green an attractive location for industrial development. By the latter part of the century, the proximity to both the railway network and the River Thames contributed to its selection as the site for an ammunition works.

Establishment of Thames Ammunition Works

Founding and Early Development

The Thames Ammunition Works was founded in 1879 on the bit of land between the rivers Thames and Darenth. The development was part of a broader expansion in British munitions manufacturing to meet rising military needs during colonial conflicts. Initially, the factory was known simply as the “Slade Green Munitions Plant” but was later recognised formally as the Thames Ammunition Works after significant expansion during the 1890s. The site covered around 40 acres, a large portion of which remained marshy, reflecting the challenging landscape.

Technological Setup and Expansion

The factory employed basic large-scale manufacturing techniques, utilising steam-powered machinery for the production of gunpowder and for filling shells. In 1902, the site was acquired by Armstrong Whitworth, a major British engineering and armament company, which saw the expansion of facilities and operations. Its strategic location near the Thames allowed for efficient transport of materials, while rail infrastructure provided crucial distribution channels.

In 1897, the site experienced a major setback when an exceptionally high tide wrecked large portions of the factory, which lay mostly under water. The factory had to undergo substantial reconstruction, reflecting the vulnerabilities of operating in low-lying estuarine land.

Evolution of Production and Role in Conflicts

Production During Peacetime and Wartime

During peacetime, production focused on maintaining military supplies and experimenting with new explosives. During World War I, however, production ramped up significantly. The factory became a key supplier of ammunition, employing thousands of workers to meet the demands of the war effort. Many of these workers were women, known as “munitionettes,” who took over the workforce while men were serving on the front lines. Their work was often dangerous and involved long hours.

The factory was later incorporated into Vickers-Armstrong, an expansion that allowed the works to cover an even larger area during the First World War. A light railway, known as the Trench Warfare Light Railway, linked the site to the North Kent Railway, facilitating the transport of materials both internally and externally.

Impact on the Local Economy and Society

The factory brought significant economic growth to Slade Green and the surrounding areas. Housing developments emerged to accommodate the growing workforce. However, the working conditions were hazardous, with employees often exposed to chemicals such as TNT, which led to health issues like skin discolouration (“canary skin”). Despite these dangers, the factory provided stable employment in an era of uncertainty.

Incidents, Accidents, and Safety Concerns

Accidents and Explosions

  • 1897 – High Tide Destruction: The factory was severely damaged by an exceptionally high tide, resulting in significant operational disruption.
  • 1924 – Filling Factory Explosion: On February 19, 1924, a terrible disaster occurred at the Slade Green Filling Factory, which was part of the broader Thames Ammunition Works. The incident involved 18 girls and a foreman, Edward Jones, who were working on breaking down Verey light cartridges. The explosion claimed the lives of 11 of the girls and the foreman, while another worker, Miss Edna Allen, succumbed to her injuries later at Erith Cottage Hospital. Eyewitness accounts highlighted the suddenness of the explosion, which turned the building into an inferno, trapping the workers inside. The event was widely reported, and seven of the girls who died were buried in a collective grave, underscoring the tragedy’s impact on the community.
  • 1953 – North Sea Flood: On January 31 and February 1, 1953, the North Sea flood struck the Thames Ammunition Works. Despite embankments that were meant to protect the facility, the site was inundated, leading to operational setbacks. The flood highlighted the vulnerability of the location and disrupted production.
  • 1956 – Powder Explosion: On February 18, 1956, an explosion involving waste ammunition powder injured three workers. George Cately, Thomas Pritchard, and Henry Shepherd were injured when the powder exploded while being wheeled to a dump. The incident underscored ongoing safety challenges at the factory, despite advancements in industrial processes. Later in April 1956, another explosion injured two women, Mrs. Mabel Clifton and Miss Florence Dawn, while they were working with gunpowder-infused polythene discs.

Impact on Workers and Community

The risks involved in working at Thames Ammunition Works were ever-present. The explosions not only claimed lives but left psychological scars on the community. Many of the workers were local, and the loss of life during incidents like the 1924 explosion brought the community together in collective mourning, exemplified by the funeral of seven girls in a single grave in Erith Cemetery. These events forged a deep bond among the residents, who were united in the shared hardships of the wartime production environment.

6. Trivia, Facts, and Lesser-Known Stories

Unusual Events and Anecdotes

One anecdote that stands out involves a group of workers who successfully prevented a catastrophic explosion by quickly disposing of a defective shell, risking their lives. This act of bravery was commended, with workers receiving modest compensation. The incident reflects the high-risk environment of the factory and the courage shown by its workforce.

Local Legends and Myths

The factory’s location and the dangerous work fostered local myths, such as rumours of secret underground tunnels used for covert transport of materials. These stories, while not substantiated by evidence, have become part of the local folklore, contributing to the mysterious aura of the site.

Decline and Closure of the Thames Ammunition Works

Post-War Decline

Following World War II, the demand for munitions sharply declined. The factory began reducing its operations, and by 1962, the Thames Ammunition Works had officially closed its doors. Economic changes, alongside advancements in weapons technology, rendered much of the site obsolete. The site’s operations were gradually wound down until the final closure.

Repurposing or Redevelopment

After the closure in 1962, the site was largely abandoned, and many of the buildings fell into disrepair. In subsequent years, much of the land was repurposed for residential housing. Today, there are few visible remnants of the factory, though some internal rails from the Trench Warfare Light Railway still exist, albeit overgrown and largely forgotten.

Legacy and Impact

Socio-Economic Impact

The Thames Ammunition Works left a lasting imprint on Slade Green. The influx of workers during its operational years transformed the area, establishing a working-class community with deep ties to the site. Even after the closure, the stories of sacrifice and the hardships endured by workers became part of the local narrative, preserved through community efforts and oral histories.

Historical Significance and Preservation

The Thames Ammunition Works’ contribution to Britain’s wartime efforts was substantial. Unfortunately, formal preservation efforts for the site have been minimal. Occasional commemorative events by local historical societies serve as the only markers of the site’s significance. The industrial heritage of Slade Green thus lives on primarily through the shared memories of its community members.