Loughton Camp – The Iron Hill Fort

If you happen to stroll along Fleet Street, you will surely notice St Bride’s Church’s famous wedding cake spire, designed by England’s most notable architect, Sir Christopher Wren. However, few know you can visit one of the most fascinating and blood-chilling archaeological sites under the church. Featuring a fragment of a Roman paved street, the foundations of Saxon and mediaeval Christian temples, and a haunting charnel house, it is a must-visit for those tempted by London’s millennial history.

From its ancient roots as a possible site of 6th-century worship to its repeated destruction and rebirth, St Bride’s is a microcosm of London’s turbulent life. And it is what lies beneath its foundations that reveals the layers of its fascinating, and at times eerie, past.

The Early History of St Bride’s Church

St Bride’s Church may be best known for its striking spire, but its origins stretch back far beyond Sir Christopher Wren’s baroque creation. Archaeological evidence suggests that a place of worship existed on this site as early as the 6th century AD, when London, or Londinium, was a relatively quiet town in post-Roman Britain, a mere shadow of its former urban glory.

It is believed that the earliest church here may have been a simple wooden structure built by early Saxon Christians. Fleet Street was part of an ancient Roman road that connected the heart of Londinium with the surrounding areas, making it a vital location for commerce, communication, and religious life.

Over time, the early wooden church would have been replaced by more substantial structures as the city grew and developed. By the medieval period, St Bride’s had become a prominent place of worship for the growing population of Londoners. Its name is thought to derive from St Brigid, a patron saint of Ireland, and the church would have served as a spiritual anchor for the inhabitants of Fleet Street and beyond.

The Great Fire of London and Christopher Wren’s Masterpiece

The Great Fire of London in 1666 consumed much of the city, and St Bride’s was not spared. The wooden structure that had stood for centuries was reduced to ashes, along with 87 other churches. But from this catastrophe emerged one of the greatest architectural minds of the time, Sir Christopher Wren.

Wren, tasked with rebuilding many of the city’s churches, approached the reconstruction of St Bride’s with the same ingenuity and grandeur that marked his work on St Paul’s Cathedral and other masterpieces. The church’s most famous feature, the spire, was designed as a symbol of hope and resilience. With its layered design resembling a wedding cake, it became a lasting icon of the city.

Like many of Wren’s works, St Bride’s reflected the blend of elegance and practicality that defined his architectural style. While St Paul’s Cathedral may have been his crowning achievement, St Bride’s spire is one of his most creative expressions. The church was designed to be more than just a place of worship—it was a statement of London’s capacity for renewal.

The Cholera Outbreak of 1854 and Sealing of the Tombs

St Bride’s continued to serve as a hub for its parishioners well into the 19th century, but another disaster would soon touch it. In 1854, an outbreak of cholera swept through London, causing widespread panic and devastation. This particular outbreak became infamous for its connection to the contaminated water supply around Broad Street, but it also affected those buried beneath St Bride’s.

The cholera epidemic forced authorities to reassess the practice of burying people in church crypts and graveyards, particularly in urban areas like Fleet Street. It was feared that decaying bodies in the church’s tombs could be spreading disease through the air and water. As a result, many of the tombs at St Bride’s were sealed to prevent further contamination.

These tombs, once the final resting places for some of London’s notable citizens, remained untouched for nearly a century. It wasn’t until much later, during the reconstruction after World War II, that they were reopened, revealing chilling secrets of the church’s past.

The Blitz and the Excavations That Followed

As Londoners endured the harrowing days of the Blitz during World War II, St Bride’s found itself again in the line of fire. In December 1940, a bomb hit the church, reducing it to ruins for the second time in its history. Though the spire survived, the interior was obliterated, leaving only a skeleton of Wren’s vision.

Before the church could be rebuilt, archaeologists were granted permission to conduct excavations beneath the ruins. What they uncovered shocked many and offered a rare glimpse into the ancient history of London.

The excavation of St Bride’s unearthed layers of history buried beneath its foundations. Beneath the rubble of Wren’s baroque masterpiece, archaeologists found traces of Roman Londinium, Saxon artefacts, and medieval foundations, each representing different periods of the city’s evolution.

The Roman Ditch and Pavement

One of the most remarkable discoveries during the excavation was the remains of a Roman ditch and pavement. The Roman presence in the area dates back to the 1st century AD when Londinium was an important Roman settlement. The excavation revealed the remnants of a Roman road and a drainage ditch that would have helped channel water from the higher ground towards the River Fleet.

The discovery of the Roman pavement was particularly significant, as it provided a tangible link to the city’s ancient past. This well-preserved section of Roman engineering underscored Fleet Street’s long-standing importance as a major thoroughfare, long before it became synonymous with London’s printing trade.

Saxon and Mediaeval Foundations

As archaeologists dug deeper, they uncovered foundations from the Saxon and Mediaeval periods, each offering insights into the church’s evolving architecture. The earliest were believed to be from the 6th or 7th century when the first Christian structure was built on the site.

Later, mediaeval foundations showed how the church expanded and rebuilt over the centuries. These remnants of previous iterations of St Bride’s reminded us of the constant flux of history—the church, like the city it served, had been built, destroyed, and rebuilt countless times.

The Iron Coffin of Mrs Campbell

Among the many tombs discovered beneath St Bride’s, one stood out as particularly curious: the iron coffin of Mrs Campbell. Unlike the more traditional lead or wooden coffins, Mrs Campbell had been interred in a large iron sarcophagus, likely as a precaution against grave robbers.

The coffin, while fascinating from an archaeological perspective, also raised questions about Mrs Campbell’s life and death. Iron coffins were rare and expensive, typically reserved for those who could afford such elaborate burials. The decision to place her in such a coffin suggests a concern about the sanctity of her final resting place, possibly due to the fear of body-snatching, a practice not uncommon in 18th—and 19th-century London.

The Blood-Chilling Charnel House

Perhaps the most macabre discovery beneath St Bride’s was the charnel house, a place where bones of the dead were stored after their bodies had decayed. This grim chamber was filled with human remains, carefully stacked in a manner that reflected both the practicalities of space and the reverence for the dead.

The charnel house was a reminder of the church’s medieval past when burial space in London was at a premium. Instead of leaving decaying bodies in overcrowded churchyards, remains would be exhumed and placed in charnel houses to make room for new burials. While the practice may seem unsettling today, it was a common solution to the problem of limited burial space in urban areas.

The discovery of the charnel house beneath St Bride’s brought to light the sobering reality of life, death, and burial practices in medieval London. It was a testament to the church’s long history as a place of worship but also of burial and remembrance.

A Church with a Thousand Lives

With its elegant spire towering over Fleet Street, St Bride’s Church is more than just a symbol of architectural beauty. It is a history repository containing the stories of centuries beneath its foundations. St Bride’s is a microcosm of the city’s life story from its Roman origins to its Saxon beginnings, its medieval transformations, and its role as a final resting place for London’s dead.

The hidden secrets beneath St Bride’s remind us that London’s history is written in the buildings we see above ground and the layers beneath.

Somerset House is one of London’s most prominent neoclassical buildings, standing grandly on the banks of the River Thames. Its elegant Georgian façade conceals centuries of history. Built on land once occupied by palaces and ancient streets, it has seen a parade of royal, political, and artistic figures walk its grounds. But beyond its striking appearance, the real mystery lies below the surface.

In 2011, archaeologists, led by King’s College London, launched an excavation at Somerset House. With a historical backdrop so rich, expectations were high. But what the archaeologists unearthed surprised even the most seasoned experts, revealing a window into the city’s deep past, from Saxon settlements to Tudor transformations.

The 2011 Excavation: A Peek Below the Surface

In 2011, King’s College London, whose buildings adjoin Somerset House, undertook an excavation beneath the house’s east wing. The goal was initially straightforward: to better understand the site’s mediaeval origins and how they had evolved over time. The project was also driven by a practical need—the college planned to expand and needed to assess the subterranean conditions before breaking ground for new foundations.

Somerset House, already a listed building and a site of tremendous historical significance, had rarely been studied in terms of what lay beneath it. The archaeologists, therefore, embarked on the dig with hopes of uncovering something from the site’s more recent history, particularly from the Tudor or Stuart eras. Their expectations were grounded in the known fact that the land was once the site of significant Tudor-era developments. Yet, as the digging began, layers of history from much earlier periods began to reveal themselves.

Somerset House: The Birth of Grandeur

Work on Somerset House began in 1547 when Edward Seymour, the Duke of Somerset and the Lord Protector for the young King Edward VI, decided to build a palace that would rival even Hampton Court. With a vision that mixed grandiosity and personal ambition, the Duke seized prime land just off the Thames, demolishing an entire block of mediaeval buildings, including a church, to make way for his vision. This act epitomised Seymour’s rapacious nature and left a bitter legacy. His desire for self-promotion would soon lead to his fall from grace, and the palace he started remained incomplete when he was arrested and executed in 1552.

After Seymour’s death, the property was returned to the Crown, eventually becoming a home for royal consorts. Elizabeth I occasionally stayed there, and her successor, James I, granted it to his wife, Anne of Denmark. Under her care, Somerset House saw an influx of Italian craftsmen and artists who embellished the already grand structure. The house remained a royal residence through the centuries, hosting a series of influential figures until it eventually evolved into the public building we know today.

But the site’s history did not begin with the Duke of Somerset’s grand ambitions. Long before the palace’s foundations were laid, the area was teeming with life, stretching back to the Saxon era. It was this hidden history that the archaeologists were eager to unearth.

The Saxon and Mediaeval Periods: Hidden Layers of Early London

As the archaeologists dug through the layers of history beneath Somerset House, they soon discovered that the area had been in use far earlier than previously thought. To their astonishment, they found traces of Saxon settlement from around the 9th century AD, marking the earliest known activity on the site. The Thames was a lifeline for these early settlers, providing both a transportation route and a source of sustenance. The excavations revealed postholes from timber structures, likely simple wooden houses that would have hugged the riverbank. Some signs of domestic life, such as animal bones and pottery fragments, were also found, giving a glimpse into the everyday lives of these early Londoners.

The significance of these Saxon finds cannot be overstated. In the 9th century, London was a small but growing settlement repeatedly harassed by Viking raids. The Saxons who lived on the site of Somerset House were part of a broader community beginning to recover from these onslaughts, slowly rebuilding a city that would soon grow into the metropolis we know today.

The excavations also revealed artefacts from the mediaeval period. By the 12th century, London was flourishing as a major European city, and the area where Somerset House now stands was likely filled with narrow streets and bustling activity. Foundations of stone buildings from this era were found, suggesting the presence of larger, more permanent structures, possibly merchant houses or small religious buildings. It is likely that this part of London, so close to the river, was involved in trade or crafts during the mediaeval period.

The most exciting discovery from this era was the remnants of a previously unknown mediaeval chapel. Though only partial foundations remained, it is believed that this small church would have been an important site for the local community, predating the church Seymour demolished to build his palace. The excavation unearthed fragments of decorated stonework and some religious artefacts, giving further credence to this theory. The exact history of this chapel remains a mystery, but it was clear that the area was not just a residential or commercial zone but also a spiritual centre.

The Tudor Era: Grand Visions and Dramatic Changes

The site’s transformation during the Tudor period was dramatic. When Edward Seymour seized the land for his palace, he wiped away much of the area’s existing mediaeval buildings. The excavation uncovered a wealth of material from this period, including foundations of large brick buildings that likely formed part of Somerset’s palace complex. This included the remnants of kitchens, storerooms, and even some sections of decorative garden walls.

Perhaps most striking was discovering a section of the palace’s original courtyard. The courtyard would have been at the heart of the palace’s activities, where nobles and courtiers gathered, and Somerset would have paraded his power. The excavated section revealed beautifully patterned stone pavements, suggesting that no expense was spared in constructing this luxurious palace. Yet, tragically for the Duke, much of this grandeur was never completed. He was executed before he could finish his dream, leaving future monarchs to shape the estate in their image.

Interestingly, the excavations also uncovered evidence of later Tudor use of the site. After Seymour’s death, Queen Elizabeth I had limited use for Somerset House. However, James I granted the property to his wife, Anne of Denmark, who undertook substantial renovations. The excavations found traces of these improvements, including fragments of Italian marble and decorated tiles, reflecting the queen’s desire to bring Renaissance splendour to her English residence. This Renaissance influence would have starkly contrasted with the more traditional Tudor architecture of the original palace.

The Transition into the Early Modern Period

As London transitioned into the early modern period, Somerset House’s role shifted. In the 17th century, royal consorts frequently used it, but its importance in the royal household declined. The archaeological findings from this period revealed a different type of use, with evidence of more mundane domestic activities. The large kitchens and storerooms of the Tudor palace were replaced by smaller, less grandiose structures, suggesting a more functional use of the space.

By the 18th century, when Somerset House was rebuilt in the neoclassical style we see today, much of the site’s earlier grandeur had been swept away. The excavations found evidence of these dramatic changes, with the foundations of older buildings cut through by the new construction. The team even found evidence of hurried demolition, as the site was cleared to make way for the new structure.

Unearthing London’s Hidden Past

The 2011 excavations at Somerset House revealed far more than anyone had expected. From the simple wooden homes of Saxon settlers to the grand courtyards of Tudor nobles, the site’s layers reflected the shifting fortunes of London.

Somerset House stands as a monument to London’s ability to reinvent itself. The excavation proved that beneath its grandeur lies a far more complex history that tells the story of the city’s people as much as its rulers. In this small patch of London, archaeologists uncovered evidence of a city constantly evolving, growing, and reshaping itself – a fitting metaphor for London itself.

We all know the most imposing structures that remind us of London’s medieval grandeur—Westminster Abbey, the Tower of London, Jewel Tower, Winchester Palace. But there are so many other great buildings we have lost—churches, forts, and townhouses—that have equally fascinating histories to the ones that survived.

Among the lost treasures of this city’s architectural heritage are two buildings that have vanished from the skyline but still linger in legend and lore: Baynard’s Castle. These two structures, built centuries apart, once stood as imposing strongholds, power bases, and settings for some of the most pivotal events in English history. From the Normans to the Tudors, Baynard’s Castle has witnessed it all.

Let’s take a tantalising glimpse at these two Baynard’s Castles and uncover the layers of history, legend, and power they embody.

Baynard’s Castle: The Norman Stronghold

Medieval chronicles suggest the existence of a stronghold at the junction of the rivers Thames and Fleet as early as the reign of Canute the Great. If that is the case, the first Baynard’s Castle might have been rebuilt or reinforced an already existing structure soon after William the Conqueror’s invasion of England in 1066. It was strategically located where the River Fleet flowed into the mighty Thames, just southwest of modern-day St Paul’s Cathedral. This area was a key spot, not just for defence but also for controlling London’s vital river traffic. The Fleet was more of a substantial waterway back then, and Baynard’s Castle guarded this crucial junction.

Ralph Baynard, one of William the Conqueror’s trusted Norman barons and the first Sheriff of Essex, constructed the fortification. A stalwart supporter of the new king, Ralph Baynard was granted substantial land holdings in Essex and London, including the land on which Baynard’s Castle would rise. This Ralph Baynard may well have been the same “Bainardius” mentioned in the Domesday Book, though his exact lineage remains a tantalising mystery.

The Norman castle stood as a traditional motte-and-bailey structure, a wooden keep on an earthen mound. Given its location on the banks of the Thames, it was also well-positioned for riverine defence, securing London’s western flank. Baynard’s Castle would have commanded an impressive view of the river, and its fortifications added to the growing dominance of Norman architecture in a newly conquered England.

But Baynard’s Castle was not merely a fort. Over time, it grew in importance and was associated with some of the most influential families in medieval England, eventually being owned by one of the key figures in the legendary tales of Robin Hood.

Marian Fitzwalter: From Castle Walls to Folklore

By the early 13th century, Baynard’s Castle had passed into the hands of Robert Fitzwalter, a powerful baron and one of the leaders of the Baron’s Revolt against King John. Fitzwalter was a fascinating character, both a rebel and a nobleman, whose life intersected with some of the most famous figures in English legend.

According to folklore, Fitzwalter’s daughter, Marian Fitzwalter, was none other than Maid Marian, the beloved of Robin Hood. Marian the Fair, as she was called, is said to have grown up in the castle, where her beauty and noble spirit captured the hearts of many—including, according to legend, the outlaw Robin Hood. Whether or not this is true, the association between Marian Fitzwalter and Maid Marian has become deeply rooted in England’s folklore. However, it is a historical fact that she caught the eye of no other but King John himself, and his scandalous advances might have provoked the ensuing crisis.

As for her father, Robert Fitzwalter’s rebellion against King John culminated in the Magna Carta’s signing. His leadership in the revolt, however, came at a cost. In retaliation for his disobedience, King John ordered the destruction of Baynard’s Castle. On January 14, 1213, the once-formidable fortress was razed to the ground. The site would remain a ruin for over a century, a silent witness to London’s turbulent past.

The New Baynard’s Castle: A Yorkist Stronghold

In the early 15th century, a new building emerged near the ruins of the original castle, known in the records as a “Hospice called le Old Inne by Pauls Wharfe”. This new Baynard’s Castle, located slightly southeast of its predecessor, near Queenhithe, was less of a defensive fortress and more of a grand, fortified house. It was no longer a Norman outpost but an aristocratic residence.

Baynard’s Castle became particularly significant during the Wars of the Roses, a series of civil wars that gripped England in the 15th century. The Yorkist branch of the Plantagenets used the castle as their London headquarters. During this time, it became a focal point of political intrigue and military strategy. Edward IV, one of the Yorkist claimants to the throne, was known to have gathered his forces there before seizing power. It was at Baynard’s Castle that Edward was proclaimed king, marking one of the most dramatic shifts in English history.

The castle’s new role as a political nerve centre made it more than just an impressive residence. It symbolised the Plantagenet claim to the throne and was a stronghold of legitimacy during the turbulent times of civil war.

Tudor Grandeur and Political Drama

Baynard’s Castle played a vital role in English politics as the Wars of the Roses gave way to the Tudor dynasty. After the victory of Henry VII, the first Tudor king, the royal family repaired and used the house. It was eventually inherited by Henry VIII, who in turn bestowed it upon his first wife, Catherine of Aragon, as part of her dowry. The grandeur and prestige of Baynard’s Castle were undeniable, as it became a key royal residence in the early years of Henry’s reign.

After Catherine’s fall from favour, Baynard’s Castle passed to the Earl of Pembroke, brother-in-law to Henry’s final wife, Catherine Parr. The castle would become a backdrop for some of the most critical events in Tudor politics.

One of the most notable moments in the castle’s history occurred in 1553, during the political crisis that followed the death of Edward VI. Edward, the young Protestant king, had named Lady Jane Grey as his successor, bypassing his Catholic sister Mary. However, this decision proved deeply unpopular. It was at Baynard’s Castle that the Privy Council convened to end Jane’s brief reign and proclaim Mary Tudor as the rightful queen of England. This dramatic shift of power from Protestant to Catholic monarch changed the course of the country’s history, all within the castle’s historic walls.

The Great Fire of 1666: Baynard’s Castle Lost

For all its grandeur, Baynard’s Castle could not escape the devastating events of the Great Fire of London in 1666. Like so many of the city’s landmarks, it was consumed by the flames that swept through London, leaving only smouldering ruins in its wake. The fire, which started in a bakery on Pudding Lane, destroyed much of the city, including St Paul’s Cathedral, and swept west along the Thames. Being so close to the river, Baynard’s Castle was among the many casualties.

London was rebuilt in the aftermath of the fire, but Baynard’s Castle was not. Unlike St Paul’s, which rose again from the ashes, Baynard’s Castle faded into memory, its stones buried beneath the city’s redevelopment.

A Glimpse of What Remains

Today, the legacy of Baynard’s Castle endures in the names of the streets and areas around the site where it once stood. Baynard House, an office block constructed in the 1970s, sits on the approximate location of the original Norman fort, while the surrounding Baynard Street and Castle Baynard Ward further remind the castle’s historical significance.

Though little remains of the actual structure, the stories of the two Baynard’s Castles live on, woven into the fabric of London’s history. From Ralph Baynard’s Norman fortress to the political drama of the Tudors, Baynard’s Castle remains a symbol of the city’s ever-changing landscape—an enduring reminder of London’s past, where legends and history intertwine.

Encountering a blue whale in open waters is among the most awesome things a person can experience. Seeing these gentle giants glide through the depths puts things in perspective unlike anything else in the world. But seeing a blue whale in London – now that’s something you wouldn’t expect to hear. And yet you can – well, sort of… Let us explain.

A Monument of the Unseen Giants

If you happen to have some business in the neighbourhood of Barnet, head towards Wood Street. Go past the modest houses and shops, only to encounter the towering arch formed by two enormous whale jawbones. These bones, which once belonged to the largest animal on Earth, now stand in an unexpected spot far from their oceanic origins. The Whalebones landmark has become a familiar sight for locals and an intriguing curiosity for visitors passing through. Standing beneath these bones is a strange, humbling experience. The sheer size of the structure offers a physical reminder of how enormous blue whales are. It’s as if a piece of the ocean had been plucked from the waves and settled in the middle of Barnet.

The jawbones, which reach upwards like a gateway to a world of bygone maritime adventures, have been part of the local landscape for decades. Though they’ve become part of Barnet’s identity, the story of how these whale bones ended here is a tale full of unlikely events and surprising twists.

The Circus Comes to Town: Installing the Whalebones in 1939

The jawbones arrived in Barnet in a lorry via Hull in 1939. The event felt like a grand spectacle, almost like a travelling circus rolling into town. As construction crews prepared to install these enormous bones, a quiet residential area was suddenly abuzz with activity. The bones were sourced from a blue whale and delivered from Norway. However, turning these massive pieces of natural history into a sturdy archway wasn’t simple.

For starters, the bones were not just large but unwieldy. Moving them into position took careful planning, involving the frantic efforts of half a dozen workers. The locals gathered to watch the show as the construction crew manoeuvred these whale bones into place. It was a strange sight – not something you’d expect to see in a quiet London suburb. Children stood wide-eyed as these gigantic bones slowly rose into the air.

The crew had to ensure the bones were stable, balancing their weight and securing them to a strong foundation. The bones were arranged in an arch, reminiscent of the prows of Viking ships or the entrance to a mythical kingdom. To many, it felt like something out of a storybook, a doorway to another world. Once installed, the structure quickly became a landmark. Even today, the sense of wonder remains.

From the Ocean to Barnet: The Origins of the Whalebones

So how did these whale bones end up in Barnet in the first place? The answer lies in the history of a house that stood on Wood Street, a property known as Whalebones. The house was built in 1815, and the name Whalebones first appeared on a map in 1872, and the house had always been something of a local curiosity. While the exact reason for the estate’s peculiar name is shrouded in mystery, many believe it was linked to the house’s most prominent resident – no other than the famous polar explorer, Sir John Franklin. Over time, the property’s name became synonymous with the giant jawbones at the entrance, giving the house an air of exoticism and adventure.

The bones themselves came from Norway. In the 19th century, whale hunting was a massive industry in Norway, where the rich waters of the North Atlantic provided ample opportunity for capturing these giant creatures. The Norwegian company that delivered the bones to Barnet was part of this booming industry. In a world where whaling was still common, exporting such bones was not unusual. However, the idea of using these bones as an architectural feature in a quiet London suburb was unusual. Yet that’s exactly what happened.

The house, Whalebones, remained a prominent feature in Barnet until its eventual demolition in the mid-20th century. But the bones remained a curious relic of the estate and the oceanic giants that once ruled the seas.

A Fight for Whalebones: The Housing Development Controversy

While the bones have stood for decades, their future has not always been secure. In 2019, a major development proposal threatened to change the landscape of Whalebones forever. A housing complex of 152 new homes was proposed for the site, and this plan immediately met with strong opposition from the local community.

Like much of London, Barnet has faced increasing pressure to meet housing demands. Developers often look for large open spaces where they can build new homes. The Whalebones estate, with its expansive grounds, seemed an attractive option for such a project. However, for many in Barnet, Whalebones was more than just a convenient plot of land. It symbolised the area’s unique heritage, a landmark that had stood for generations.

Local residents, conservation groups, and heritage organisations rallied to oppose the development. For them, the Whalebones were not just relics of the past but a crucial part of Barnet’s identity. They argued that the bones and the green space around them must be preserved for future generations. The proposal to replace the bones with a housing complex felt like erasing a piece of history.

The campaign to save Whalebones was fierce and passionate. Letters were written, petitions were signed, and public meetings were held. The message was clear: Whalebones belonged to Barnet and should remain untouched. The debate lasted for months, with both sides presenting their arguments. For the developers, the housing shortage was a pressing concern. For the locals, however, the loss of Whalebones would have been a cultural tragedy.

In 2020, the proposal was officially rejected. The community’s efforts had paid off, and the Whalebones were saved. The jawbones remain standing, a testament to both Barnet’s maritime connections and the power of local action.

Whalebones Today: A Piece of Barnet’s Soul

Today, Whalebones is more than just a quirky landmark. It’s a reminder of Barnet’s long history, a piece of the past that connects the area to the wider world. It also symbolises how communities can come together to protect the places that matter to them.

While the original Whalebones house is long gone, and the area around it has changed, the archway of blue whale jawbones remains a striking and unusual feature. It echoes a time when maritime adventures and exotic discoveries captured the public’s imagination. In an era when London was a hub of global exploration, the idea of bringing something as monumental as whale bones back to the city wasn’t just plausible—it was thrilling.

The Whalebones link the natural world and the urban environment, a meeting point between land and sea. They remind us of the sheer scale of the creatures that inhabit our oceans and the way humans have interacted with them over the centuries. Meeting a blue whale in Barnet might seem impossible, but standing under the Whalebones arch, you’re closer to the giants of the deep than you might think.

London is a city layered with history, where streets, buildings, and even churches are wrapped in stories of the past. From the monumental Westminster Abbey to the smaller but equally significant churches like St Helen Bishopsgate and St Bride’s, many of these sacred sites carry claims that stretch back over a thousand years. Some of these claims, though, often fall under scrutiny from historians. Southwark Cathedral, for instance, has a long and illustrious history, but the church’s claim that it dates back to 606 AD raises more questions than it answers.

The Problem with London’s Ancient Church Claims

London’s churches are known for their architectural grandeur and rich histories, but they are also known for ambitious historical claims. Westminster Abbey is an iconic example. The current Gothic masterpiece, mostly built between the 13th and 16th centuries, is said to stand on the site of a much earlier church founded by Saint Dunstan in the 960s. Yet, legends insist there was an even older Roman temple dedicated to Apollo on that site. Historical records don’t support such a temple’s existence, but the claim lingers in popular imagination.

Another case is St Helen Bishopsgate, which boasts an impressive history as one of London’s few surviving medieval churches. While claims suggest its origins stretch back to the 10th century, there is little concrete evidence for this early date. The same is true for St Mary-le-Bow, an East End church with a stunning Baroque design that often clings to a history that supposedly stretches into Anglo-Saxon times. Even St Bride’s Church on Fleet Street claims a murky foundation story, with some legends linking it to Roman times, despite the current church being the ninth iteration, dating from Sir Christopher Wren’s post-Great Fire of London reconstruction.

Churches like these are not content with simply being hundreds of years old; they seem to need to push the envelope back even further, as though a church’s legacy requires it to predate the Norman Conquest to truly matter. This brings us to Southwark Cathedral, where a claim of being founded in 606 AD stands out as particularly dubious.

Southwark Cathedral and the 606 AD Claim

Nestled on the southern bank of the Thames, Southwark Cathedral is one of London’s most charming historic churches. It’s no stretch to say that this building has witnessed countless moments in the city’s story. The church has stood as a symbol of religious life in Southwark for many centuries, but did it truly exist in 606 AD?

The official narrative, presented by church authorities, claims that a Christian place of worship has been on the site since 606 AD. However, there is little historical documentation to back up such a precise and early date. This assertion seems based more on local folklore and loose references than solid evidence. The idea that Southwark could have had a Christian church at that time is not impossible, but it remains speculative without any archaeological proof to substantiate it.

Even the oldest parts of the current structure, largely built between the 12th and 14th centuries, provide no clues that point to a 7th-century origin. What is clear, though, is that Southwark was an important area during the Roman and Anglo-Saxon periods, given its strategic location near the river and major Roman roads. Still, no clear evidence has surfaced suggesting a formal church existed before the Norman Conquest.

The Historical Facts: Domesday Book and St Mary Overy

The first historical mention of a church in Southwark comes from the Domesday Book, the great survey commissioned by William the Conqueror in 1086. However, the details are vague. The Domesday entry refers to a church in Southwark but gives no name, location, or indication that it was the precursor to Southwark Cathedral.

More concrete history begins with the founding of St Mary Overy Priory in 1106. This Augustinian priory, established by William Giffard, the Bishop of Winchester, is a key moment in Southwark Cathedral’s history. The priory became a religious and social hub in medieval Southwark, attracting pilgrims and laypeople. By the 12th century, the priory church was likely a grand structure, far removed from the humble beginnings implied by the 606 AD claim.

Even so, some historical writers have hinted at an older church on the site. John Stowe, a 16th-century historian, wrote that a church existed “far before the Conquest in 1066.” But Stowe’s records are vague at best. His claim lacks specific references and appears more based on oral tradition and speculation than tangible evidence. In historical research, unsubstantiated claims, such as those made by Stowe, must be treated cautiously, as they can blur the line between history and legend.

The Search for Proof

Historians and archaeologists investigating Southwark Cathedral have not uncovered much that lends credibility to the 606 AD claim. While some remnants of earlier structures have been found in the area, there is no concrete proof of a 7th-century church. Much of the evidence points to the 12th century as the true foundation period for the current building’s predecessor.

Why, then, does the cathedral insist on this much older date? One answer lies in the tendency of many of London’s historic churches to present themselves as having deeper, almost mythical roots. It creates a sense of continuity and importance that stretches centuries, linking the present building with the earliest days of Christianity in Britain. This is common among churches and religious institutions, where historical grandeur is seen as part of their spiritual and cultural legacy.

The Need to Extend History: Is It Necessary?

The desire to extend the age of historical churches isn’t unique to Southwark Cathedral. Across Europe, churches often make claims that tie them to the earliest periods of Christian history. The question is, why do they feel the need to do so?

In a city like London, where history is everywhere, there seems to be a certain prestige that comes with being older. A church that can claim a foundation in the 7th century may seem more impressive or spiritually significant than one founded a few centuries later. The reverence for ancient history leads to “historical inflation,” where churches feel compelled to push their origins back further than the evidence supports.

But this raises an interesting question: Isn’t the real history enough? Southwark Cathedral, like many of its peers, has a rich and well-documented history stretching back nearly a millennium. The priory of St Mary Overy, the turbulent centuries of religious and political change, the figures who have passed through its doors—all of these elements form a fascinating story. Yet, the desire to be the “oldest” somehow remains irresistible, even when the facts don’t fully align.

Perhaps it is human nature to seek out beginnings. We are often drawn to continuity, the notion that a place has stood witness to countless generations. But in the case of Southwark Cathedral and other historic churches, the real histories – with all their complexities, reconstructions, and evolutions – are just as compelling as the myths that seek to extend them further.

Looking Beyond the Claims

The history of Southwark Cathedral is a testament to the layers of time and belief that shape London’s sacred spaces. While the claim of a 606 AD origin is dubious, it doesn’t take away from the importance of this church as a site of spiritual and cultural life. The real history, from the founding of the Priory of St Mary Overy to its role in the Reformation and beyond, is more than enough to secure Southwark Cathedral’s place as one of London’s great landmarks. Ultimately, the truth is as enduring as the myths – and often just as fascinating.

The Jewel Tower, a small but historically significant landmark in the heart of Westminster, London, often flies under the radar of tourists and locals alike. This unassuming building, constructed in the 14th century, is one of the few remnants of the medieval Palace of Westminster that survived centuries of change, destruction, and transformation. It once housed the royal treasures of Edward III, protecting gold, silver, and other riches from thieves and fire. Today, it offers a rare glimpse into the life and architecture of medieval London. Unlike many grander sites in the capital, the Jewel Tower provides an intimate and peaceful experience, transporting visitors back to a time when England was a dominant force in Europe. Its thick walls, narrow windows, and surviving stone carvings all bear testimony to the turbulent and regal history of England, making it a truly fascinating place to explore.

A Tower Built for Treasure

The Jewel Tower was constructed between 1365 and 1366 during the reign of King Edward III, at the height of his reign and when England was a dominant power in Europe. At this time, England was basking in the aftermath of the Battle of Poitiers, a decisive English victory in 1356 during the Hundred Years’ War against France. The battle was a momentous win for the English army and significantly boosted Edward III’s position as a monarch. His regime, known for its military successes, chivalric culture, and ambitions to consolidate royal power, left a tangible mark on the country’s infrastructure. The Jewel Tower was part of that legacy.

The tower was initially designed to house the monarch’s treasures, including precious jewels, gold, and silverware. Given its royal significance, it was carefully built to be fireproof, solid, and secure. The construction is remarkable for its era, with walls made of Kentish ragstone, a durable material that has survived the ravages of time, and a moat that once encircled it, providing further protection. The tower was also part of the wider Palace of Westminster complex, where kings held court and where the Houses of Parliament stand today.

Historical Context: The Zenith of Plantagenet Rule

The building of the Jewel Tower took place during one of England’s golden eras, just a decade after the triumph at Poitiers. Edward III’s reign marked the peak of Plantagenet rule, characterised by military prowess and the establishment of English identity through events such as the founding of the Order of the Garter and victories in the Hundred Years’ War. England’s nobility, adorned in extravagant garments, embraced courtly life and romanticised notions of knighthood. It was a time of great prestige for the English crown as the kingdom asserted its dominance over its neighbours and strengthened its place on the European stage.

Yet, this period wasn’t without its challenges. The Black Death had swept through Europe a few years earlier, devastating populations, including England’s. Nonetheless, England’s wealth was growing, fuelled by its victories in France, and Edward III was determined to preserve his treasures and maintain the grandeur of his reign. The construction of the Jewel Tower was one of several projects designed to bolster royal authority and secure valuable possessions. At this point, the Plantagenets were still in firm control, unaware of the eventual dynastic struggles and civil wars that would erupt in later centuries.

Jewel Tower’s Architectural Legacy

Though modest in size compared to other medieval fortifications, the Jewel Tower is architecturally significant. Its three floors are constructed with thick walls and trim and arched windows, providing a blend of security and elegance. The tower’s original purpose is reflected in its name—this was a place where treasures were stored, away from the bustling public life of the palace, in a secluded area accessible only to the monarch and trusted courtiers.

Inside, the tower offers a glimpse of how it may have been used during its heyday. Visitors can walk through its narrow, winding staircases and peer out of its tiny windows, imagining what it was like when it was packed with treasure chests and royal valuables. Original features, such as the medieval fireplaces and stone vaulting, add to the atmosphere of authenticity.

In the 20th century, the Jewel Tower underwent careful restoration to preserve its medieval character. Much of its original structure was repaired during this period, and the surrounding moat was excavated, further highlighting its historic role as a fortified treasure house. The restoration work has ensured that the tower remains one of the most intact examples of 14th-century architecture in Westminster.

A 21st-Century Museum and Tourist Spot

Today, Jewel Tower is managed by English Heritage and operates as a museum that tells the story of its long history and the changing landscape of Westminster. The exhibits focus on its original function as a storehouse for royal treasures. Still, they also explore its later use as a records office for the House of Lords and a location for testing official weights and measures in the 19th century. Visitors can explore the interactive displays and artefacts that span the building’s various uses over the centuries.

The tower offers a peaceful contrast to the more crowded tourist attractions in Westminster, providing an oasis of history and calm just a short distance from the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Its charm lies in its simplicity and ability to take visitors back in time. Few places in London allow one to experience the past as intimately as in the Jewel Tower, making it a must-see for anyone interested in the city’s medieval history.

Getting to the Jewel Tower: Location and Transport Links

The Jewel Tower is conveniently located in the heart of Westminster, just a short walk from some of London’s most iconic landmarks. It sits near the southern end of Westminster Abbey’s precincts, on the corner of Abingdon Street and Old Palace Yard, close to the River Thames. Its proximity to the Palace of Westminster makes it easy to visit alongside nearby attractions such as Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, and the Churchill War Rooms.

For public transport, the tower is well-served by several tube stations. Westminster station, on the Jubilee, District, and Circle lines, is just a five-minute walk away. St. James’s Park station, on the District and Circle lines, is also within walking distance, providing an alternative route to the tower. Multiple bus routes, including 11, 24, and 148, stop nearby, making it accessible from different parts of London.

If you’re coming from further afield, London Victoria Station is the closest major train hub, just a 15-minute walk or a short bus ride away. Visitors can also arrive via riverboat services on the Thames, with the Westminster Pier offering a scenic approach to the tower. Cycling is another option, as the area has dedicated bike lanes and docking stations for London’s bike-sharing scheme.

The Jewel Tower’s Place in London’s Heritage

The Jewel Tower may not dominate the London skyline like the Shard or St. Paul’s Cathedral, but its historical significance is undeniable. It is a quiet reminder of the medieval world that once existed in Westminster, offering a more personal connection to England’s past. For those who appreciate the stories behind the stones, the Jewel Tower provides a fascinating look at a bygone era when kings safeguarded their treasures, not only from enemies but from the unpredictability of life in a medieval city. Visiting this lesser-known gem lets you enter a hidden chapter of London’s vast and varied history.